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View Full Version : spare motor WTFH issue. #2 rod binds.

BobTheBiker
09-17-2009, 04:30 PM
This is a completely WTFH issue to me. my S10's spare engine a 2.2L 4 cyl, evidently has the most unique problem I've seen todate. When torqued to the factory specification of 32 lb ft on the rod end cap, that rod WILL NOT move for anything. it should glide smooth as silk on the crank, but instead, it simply will not move for shit. I cant figure this one out.

The motor turned absolutely fine prior to disassembly, then upon reassembly, no new parts, just an inspecton of internals, that rod WILL NOT move when torqued down.
derf
09-17-2009, 04:35 PM
Sounds like out of spec bearings or wrong size bearings
BobTheBiker
09-17-2009, 04:48 PM
bearings are original, not replacements, which is why I'm so VERY stumped.
karl_1052
09-17-2009, 04:50 PM
Rod bearings in backwards.
BobTheBiker
09-17-2009, 05:05 PM
how can they be in backwards? only go in one way with a notch on the cap and rod.
derf
09-17-2009, 05:08 PM
The only other idea I might have is that something is put together wrong. Take it apart and redo it. also check to make sure you put machine oil on all the spinney parts so they get lubed the first time you start it.
BobTheBiker
09-17-2009, 05:12 PM
Thing is I've torn the thing apart, put it together and torn it apart again so many times I could probably do it blindfolded now.

I'm lubricating everything as assemble it too, I'm really anal about that.
derf
09-17-2009, 05:13 PM
is there any way the rods, the crank or the bearings have been damaged? Possibly dropped or hit with something?
karl_1052
09-17-2009, 05:24 PM
Is this just the short block or is the head on it too?
BobTheBiker
09-17-2009, 05:41 PM
shortblock. near as I can tell I looked at the bearings in it, and they dont both match for some weird reason. I've got a 143D and 143E series bearing on that rod, I'm beginning to believe that the issue is that my bearings are too small and binding it up.
Rider
09-18-2009, 08:02 AM
Check the rod and bearings for any burs. I's start with fresh bearings to be on the safe side.
Avatard
09-18-2009, 09:01 AM
http://www.ehow.com/how_2142943_use-plastigage-measure-clearances.html
BobTheBiker
09-18-2009, 11:00 AM
thanks. I have micrometers to be a touch more precise.
Avatard
09-18-2009, 11:03 AM
How shit measures is one thing. How it fits together is another.
101lifts2
09-19-2009, 01:34 AM
http://www.ehow.com/how_2142943_use-plastigage-measure-clearances.html

I'm going to go out on a limb here, but he cannot move the rod on the crank the plastigauge is going to read 0. LOL

Sounds like you have the wrong bearing set esp. if the numbers don't match.

Didn't you put new rod bearings in this engine?
101lifts2
09-19-2009, 01:41 AM
The connecting rods are 38ftlbs, not 32...at least according to the latest GM service info.

• Install the connecting rod bolt nuts.
Tighten

• Tighten the connecting rod bolt nuts to 52 N·m (38 lb ft).
• Loosen the connecting rod bolt nuts 1 full turn.
• Tighten the connecting rod bolt nuts to 52 N·m (38 lb ft).
BobTheBiker
09-19-2009, 08:33 AM
That 38 figure, is it for the 4.3 or the 2.2?
101lifts2
09-20-2009, 12:30 AM
that 38 figure, is it for the 4.3 or the 2.2?

2.2l
BobTheBiker
09-20-2009, 12:38 AM
I'm not sure but it probably varies from year to year doesnt it? or is that just across the board from 94-03's models?

if it makes any difference, mine is a 96, and my manual was purchased within the last few months. not a factory manual though, so its entirely possible that my specs ARE outdated.
101lifts2
09-21-2009, 03:18 PM
I'm not sure but it probably varies from year to year doesnt it? or is that just across the board from 94-03's models?

if it makes any difference, mine is a 96, and my manual was purchased within the last few months. not a factory manual though, so its entirely possible that my specs ARE outdated.

That is what GM says for 1996MY 2.2L in the Sonoma. I would just put it at 38. 6lbs isn't going to make a difference, but I would not put rod caps loose.