View Full Version : Raising the SV
psychochild28
09-27-2009, 01:54 PM
Hey can anyone help me figure out exactly what I need to do to raise my SV? I have a rear stand but I'm not sure exactly what else I need to do and if it's even going to be possibly for me to do it. :?:
Please help.
Is the SV lowered?
If you are raising a lowered SV, you need the stock links and if the forks were messed with, you need a front stand to bring them back to stock position in the clamps. You will need to lift the SV to remove the links and install new ones. You can get a steel rod from home depot and two car jacks to do this.
psychochild28
09-27-2009, 02:05 PM
Yea it's lowered but the link is all the way down and there's two holes above it. Talk to drewpy he can tell you more than I can about it.
I had the stock links but with everything that happened the past few months they ended up with someone else
You should be able to get some new stock links pretty cheap off SVrider.
Basically you will raise the rear with your rear stand, once it is off the ground, shove the biggest steal rod you can get that will fit through the hole in the frame. Put some car jacks underneath that steel rod. Take off the rear stand and the bike's rear should still be up in the air. Now undo the bolt from the shock to the link and the link to the little contraption on the other side of the link. Replace links and torque the bolts back. Put back on rear stand remove rod and car jacks.
psychochild28
09-27-2009, 02:38 PM
So will the frame fall once I pull out the links?? I'm extremely bike retarted sorry.
So will the frame fall once I pull out the links?? I'm extremely bike retarted sorry.
You won't be able to do it with the rear on the ground or on the stand. The swingarm needs to move freely. There will be too much pressure on it to remove the bolts. This is all part of the suspension and you don't relieve the pressure by putting it on the stand, it's the same as it being on the ground.
You have adjustable links, so you just need to move the one side with extra bolt holes to a the next point.
psychochild28
09-27-2009, 05:40 PM
Well i now have a project for this weekend.
psychochild28
10-01-2009, 07:54 PM
I emailed the original owner and this is what he told me....
As for your questions, I just dropped the forks in the tree so if you loosen the tree you should be able to slide them either way. The dog bones also are adjustable. I think when i installed them I put them on the middle setting. I want to say that each adjustment is -3, -1, and + 1. Don't hold me to that though.
How do I know when I have the forks at the correct height?
Particle Man
10-02-2009, 10:33 AM
Do yourself a favor if and while it's up on the front stand, throw a jack under the engine block and jack the block up to take pressure off the cushion lever and so the swingarm can move freely... not such an issue taking the bolts out but it will help a TON when you're putting stuff back together.
I think I invented several swear words until I figured that little trick out.
As for the front forks, there should be just about 1/4 of an inch sticking out of the top triple clamp (maybe a little less).
Homeslice
10-02-2009, 10:45 AM
LOL, easiest way to remove a shock or dogone is to lay your bike over on a beanbag. Either that or wrap a tie down strap around one of your rafters in your garage and loop it around the bike's subframe and lift it up.
ontwo
10-02-2009, 11:15 AM
Do yourself a favor if and while it's up on the front stand, throw a jack under the engine block and jack the block up to take pressure off the cushion lever and so the swingarm can move freely... not such an issue taking the bolts out but it will help a TON when you're putting stuff back together.
I think I invented several swear words until I figured that little trick out.
As for the front forks, there should be just about 1/4 of an inch sticking out of the top triple clamp (maybe a little less).
That's the way I did it with the 10. Just be sure not to jack it too much and tip it off the rear stand (don't ask me how I know that)
psychochild28
10-04-2009, 12:36 AM
So I went to Hokie's place so they could work on it and come to find out the guy that lowered it over torqued a LOT!:wtfru: So they're going to look for a new bolt for me and we're going to try it again this week.
Thanks so much again Hokie!
Particle Man
10-04-2009, 08:45 PM
So I went to Hokie's place so they could work on it and come to find out the guy that lowered it over torqued a LOT!:wtfru: So they're going to look for a new bolt for me and we're going to try it again this week.
Thanks so much again Hokie!
another person who didn't actually follow the torque specs in the service manual, eh?
That's why I hate taking my shit to dealers, they always overtorque
Kerry_129
10-04-2009, 10:27 PM
More than just overtorqued - likely done with a healthy impact wrench. She said the PO installed the links.
It didn't appear corroded at all, but locked to the point I think it likely would have sheared or stripped the threads before loosening, and I definitely wouldn't trust it for re-use. We'll track down a bolt & have it on hand to swap tomorrow or Tue evening. :dthumb:
Jenna - the hardware you need is #9 & 11 shown here. http://www.mrcycles.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=704884&category=Motorcycles&make=SUZUKI&year=2008&fveh=19002
I made a mistake when I wrote down the bolt info. It's actually M12x1.25 x 100mm long, and grade 9.8 or 10.9
I'll see what I can find 1st thing in the morning.
I think I actually have that bolt somewhere, but it would take years to find. I have another shock as well.
Make sure you inspect the shock threads carefully, if something is torqued that bad, it's going to damage the threads if you snap it. If worse comes to worse and you damage the threading, I can hook you up on a good deal on another stock shock, cause I know I have one and I know where it is. Thats the bad thing about putting threading on the equipment itself. I have a big issue at work I am dealing with where the threading on a motor got damaged from the torqued value provided by the vendor and the motors are ripping themselves off the equipment. This motor is a lot more powerful than a SV though.
Kerry_129
10-04-2009, 10:42 PM
Fortunately it's just the bottom linkage bolt/nut which sandwiches the dogbones & needle-bearing sleeve. I'll inspect the sleeve, of course, but they're hardened/ground so I doubt they 'mushroomed' at all. I have an identical flanged nut which I cannibalized off a HawkGT project-bike, but the bolt was only 80mm. Good looking out though! :D
Fortunately it's just the bottom linkage bolt/nut which sandwiches the dogbones & needle-bearing sleeve. I have an identical flanged nut which I cannibalized off a HawkGT project-bike, but the bolt was only 80mm.
ah thats the one with the nut, I always get those two mixed up.
psychochild28
10-05-2009, 08:40 AM
More than just overtorqued - likely done with a healthy impact wrench. She said the PO installed the links.
It didn't appear corroded at all, but locked to the point I think it likely would have sheared or stripped the threads before loosening, and I definitely wouldn't trust it for re-use. We'll track down a bolt & have it on hand to swap tomorrow or Tue evening. :dthumb:
Jenna - the hardware you need is #9 & 11 shown here. http://www.mrcycles.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=704884&category=Motorcycles&make=SUZUKI&year=2008&fveh=19002
I made a mistake when I wrote down the bolt info. It's actually M12x1.25 x 100mm long, and grade 9.8 or 10.9
I'll see what I can find 1st thing in the morning.
Thank you! You guys are awesome! :rockwoot:
psychochild28
10-21-2009, 12:53 AM
And the SV is back to stock height!
Thank you so much Kerry! I owe you guys big time.
Next step riding it this weekend!
HokieDNA01
10-21-2009, 07:32 AM
Sorry I missed you Jenna! I was in bed with a sinus headache. I'm hoping its just allergies. Glad it went smooth and hope to see you out on the road again soon....if we get anymore warm weather.
Kerry_129
10-21-2009, 11:09 AM
Hey - you're welcome! Glad it worked out this time, and I'm sure it fits & handles much better for you now.
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