View Full Version : Time to Eat Some CROW!!!!
Amber Lamps
10-04-2009, 02:51 AM
Well, people after the sticking up I did for Gilles, MY chain adjuster broke tonight. Now it didn't break like the people who had incorrectly installed there adjusters broke but it broke the same. My adjustment bolt broke off at the head. They narrow it down so you can put a retaining roll pin through the adjuster to hold it in place. Anyway, I emailed them and I called my parts dealer (a buddy) who told me that Tucker Rocky will "happily" return any failed Gilles parts for new... apparently, they are very easy to deal with. So Tuesday, he's going to order me a new set and send mine back. No problem. Also, I think that I have the obvious fix for these things that will solve everyone's problems and even make the budget adjusters fine to use...Use the Gilles to make your adjustments and then use the stock adj bolts as locks or backstops. Simple.
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll220/lontigger/kdk_0024.jpg
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll220/lontigger/kdk_0025.jpg
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll220/lontigger/kdk_0026.jpg
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll220/lontigger/kdk_0027.jpg
RACER X
10-04-2009, 03:56 AM
did it happen when riding?
If it was just the bolt I would of went to Ace and bought some stainless hardware to replace it. Bolts is bolts. But you are getting free so nothing to complain about.
No Worries
10-04-2009, 01:00 PM
Wow. That looks way more complicated than the (way) older adjusters. I don't know why they have to weaken the rear bolt by having holes for pins. Why not use a locking nut on the rear adjusting bolts, just like on the front adjusters? And what is that black bracket for? A stand?
Amber Lamps
10-04-2009, 06:32 PM
Wow. That looks way more complicated than the (way) older adjusters. I don't know why they have to weaken the rear bolt by having holes for pins. Why not use a locking nut on the rear adjusting bolts, just like on the front adjusters? And what is that black bracket for? A stand?
I don't know! I mean on one hand, it lasted for 50,000+ miles of hard riding (originally on my '03)and I was REALLY on it when it broke. I considered knocking out the roll pins and installing a regular bolt with a lock nut but, I had the stock bolts laying around the house so..... Oh yea and the black brackets are for the stand and are honestly the main reason I went this way in the first place. It's hard to explain but they work so much better IMHO.
Oh the roll pin is to move the axle both forward and backward in the slot.
Amber Lamps
10-04-2009, 06:34 PM
did it happen when riding?
Yea was was on the gas and hit a bump which lifted my rear tire off the ground for a second and SNAP!
TYEster
10-04-2009, 07:11 PM
LOL, I have to ask..
How many sliders do you have on your bike?
Homeslice
10-04-2009, 07:29 PM
Guess I must be the odd man out, because I almost never need to adjust my chain between tire changes.
Antwanny
10-04-2009, 08:24 PM
not something to be proud of slice.
azoomm
10-04-2009, 08:29 PM
OK, quick question... why is it all scratched up?
And, I don't need to adjust my chain that often either... pray tell, why would that be a bad thing?
karl_1052
10-04-2009, 09:42 PM
Feck, I have 100+lbs-ft of torque, and I don't need to adjust my chain that often.
fasternyou929
10-04-2009, 10:59 PM
not something to be proud of slice.
Not sure I'd go that far. I have 13k on my chain, about 20 track days, and have yet to need to adjust my chain. I clean and lube it when needed, but the tension has never needed adjustment. I think it speaks more for that chain than it does anything I'm doing (or not doing).
Amber Lamps
10-04-2009, 11:25 PM
OK, quick question... why is it all scratched up?
And, I don't need to adjust my chain that often either... pray tell, why would that be a bad thing?
I don't adjust my chain that often either... although it was kinda loose which may have contributed to this situation....
I don't think that it's scratched, it's just dirty, I got caught in the rain last night as well... Or it might have something to do with them being on two bikes for over 50,000 miles and 4 or 5 crashes...:lol:
Mr Lefty
10-05-2009, 06:19 AM
tigg... did you remember to loosen the axle bolt before tightening the chain? I almost did that the first time... and couldn't figure out why the fuck'n bolt was so damn tight. gave a little crank on the axle bolt, and it was much easier.
Amber Lamps
10-05-2009, 09:12 AM
tigg... did you remember to loosen the axle bolt before tightening the chain? I almost did that the first time... and couldn't figure out why the fuck'n bolt was so damn tight. gave a little crank on the axle bolt, and it was much easier.
Huh? Are you fucking with me?:lol: I usually don't adjust the chain until I change the tire.. I also tend towards a "looser" chain on this bike because the sprocket carrier is way out and it has a pretty bad tight spot. One of these days, my dumb ass is going to move it around until I find the best position or get a different carrier.
Antwanny
10-05-2009, 02:40 PM
Not sure I'd go that far. I have 13k on my chain, about 20 track days, and have yet to need to adjust my chain. I clean and lube it when needed, but the tension has never needed adjustment. I think it speaks more for that chain than it does anything I'm doing (or not doing).
maybe im just meticulous
fasternyou929
10-05-2009, 03:17 PM
maybe im just meticulous
Or maybe you missed the point of my post: there's nothing wrong with not having to adjust your chain after a certain mileage. It doesn't point to a lack of care or maintenance.
CasterTroy
10-05-2009, 03:20 PM
Or maybe you missed the point of my post: there's nothing wrong with not having to adjust your chain after a certain mileage. It doesn't point to a lack of care or maintenance.
If it ain't broke (or loose) don't fix it :shrug:
Homeslice
10-05-2009, 03:31 PM
Pretty sure popping wheelies puts the most stress on a chain. So for those who don't pop wheelies, there won't be as much of a need to adjust the chain.
fasternyou929
10-05-2009, 03:50 PM
Pretty sure popping wheelies puts the most stress on a chain. So for those who don't pop wheelies, there won't be as much of a need to adjust the chain.
That and running it too tight. Your suspension will stretch your chain pretty quick for you if you don't have enough play in it.
Amber Lamps
10-05-2009, 03:53 PM
That and running it too tight. Your suspension will stretch your chain pretty quick for you if you don't have enough play in it.
QFT!!! That's why I run mine on the loose side...
Gas Man
10-06-2009, 06:32 PM
So what did you do Tig?
Remember if you replace the bolt to check grade.
SS bolts are only grade 5
You can get chrome grade 8 bolts which end up being what they call 8.8 grade.
Kerry_129
10-06-2009, 10:29 PM
If it was just the bolt I would of went to Ace and bought some stainless hardware to replace it. Bolts is bolts.
:lol: Stick to electrons. :ps: A circuit breaker is a circuit breaker, right? :nee:
SS bolts are only grade 5
Basically correct, in terms of the yield/tensile strength they're pretty close to SAE grade 5. Stainless bolts don't carry a grade/class designation, though they are covered by various (confusing) specifications. The commonly available stuff is 18-8 stainless, and min. properties/dimensions are specified by ASME B18.2.1
You can get chrome grade 8 bolts which end up being what they call 8.8 grade.
Negative.
'8.8' is a metric class designation which is roughly equivalent to SAE grade 5 fasteners, and they are available in chrome-plated.
Class 10.9 are roughly equivalent to SAE grade 8, and 12.9 is an even stronger class which doesn't have an equivalent SAE counterpart.
(Sorry to geek-out on ya, but I had to chime in since this crap has been my bread & butter for a while... :lol:)
In that application, I'd use 10.9 - but then I don't think I'd use those adjusters in the first place, since I think they're a poor design (even though they look kinda cool).
Amber Lamps
10-06-2009, 10:42 PM
:lol: Stick to electrons. :ps: A circuit breaker is a circuit breaker, right? :nee:
Basically correct, in terms of the yield/tensile strength they're pretty close to SAE grade 5. Stainless bolts don't carry a grade/class designation, though they are covered by various (confusing) specifications. The commonly available stuff is 18-8 stainless, and min. properties/dimensions are specified by ASME B18.2.1
Negative.
'8.8' is a metric class designation which is roughly equivalent to SAE grade 5 fasteners, and they are available in chrome-plated.
Class 10.9 are roughly equivalent to SAE grade 8, and 12.9 is an even stronger class which doesn't have an equivalent SAE counterpart.
(Sorry to geek-out on ya, but I had to chime in since this crap has been my bread & butter for a while... :lol:)
In that application, I'd use 10.9 - but then I don't think I'd use those adjusters in the first place, since I think they're a poor design (even though they look kinda cool).
Yea, I'm gonna use the stock bolts for back stops to totally avoid any future problems when I get the new units next week. I'm not sure what I think to be honest, I admit to jumping a speed bump, allowing the chain to get way loose AND keeping the axle kinda loose... I don't think that the axle could have moved so far if I had it correctly torqued.
Kerry_129
10-06-2009, 10:54 PM
Yeah, I definitely wouldn't just rely on the stop bolts to keep it from moving & 'spect that is the biggest contributing factor to the failure.
Why were you running the axle loose (didn't read back thru if it was in the thread)?
:lol: Stick to electrons. :ps: A circuit breaker is a circuit breaker, right? :nee:
I do more mech Engineering than I do electrical engineering nowadays on the clock. Damn mechanical aspects of the motors and breakers tend to fail first. I have had much more training in that than I have in electrical in the past few years. The aluminum is what I would be worried about more than the stainless steel bolts. No telling what Gilles actually sends out, but I don't think they go with the most stout bolts they can find. I doubt he needs safety related bolts for it though.
Amber Lamps
10-06-2009, 11:11 PM
Yeah, I definitely wouldn't just rely on the stop bolts to keep it from moving & 'spect that is the biggest contributing factor to the failure.
Why were you running the axle loose (didn't read back thru if it was in the thread)?
Ah, I'm just stupid. I had this stupid theory that the wheel turned easier...:lol: Actually, because I have a locking axle nut, I don't crank down on it that hard...:idk:
Ah, I'm just stupid. I had this stupid theory that the wheel turned easier...:lol: Actually, because I have a locking axle nut, I don't crank down on it that hard...:idk:
It's cause you have a secret hatred for engineers isn't it? Screw their torque values! :nee:
Amber Lamps
10-06-2009, 11:20 PM
It's cause you have a secret hatred for engineers isn't it? Screw their torque values! :nee:
Well to be honest, between architects and engineers, it's a wonder that I have any hair!!!:lol:
In all honesty it's a bad habit that I've gotten into since I got this Gilles axle nut. My torque wrench is in the tool chest now anyway.
Gas Man
10-07-2009, 09:26 AM
Thanks Kerry. Tell me though... if they chrome the grade 8 bolt (which my hardware store carries) does it add to the tensile strength?
Kerry_129
10-07-2009, 10:26 AM
No, that would be for show/corrosion-protection only.
Gas Man
10-08-2009, 10:34 AM
Hmmmm Makes me want to check the little box again at the hardware store...
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