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View Full Version : Construction guys: roof / chimney seal?


Triple
10-18-2010, 03:56 PM
...

Riceaholic
10-18-2010, 04:03 PM
Tar

tallywacker
10-18-2010, 04:03 PM
http://www.dlm.co.nz/dektite.html

http://www.pipebootexpress.com/

http://tinyurl.com/2uv7hcm

derf
10-18-2010, 04:44 PM
Tar

Will the heat from the stove keep the tar warm or let it keep from drying solid?

Also I would agree with rice, tar is the answer

Particle Man
10-18-2010, 05:28 PM
Tar
my house is 100 years old and this has apparently worked for that lifetime with some additional applications every decade or so.

Hydrant
10-18-2010, 07:27 PM
Can tar take the heat? I would think tar in the case of a exhaust pipe would still be pretty warm coming off a wood burning stove. It seems that the heat would keep the tar pretty gooey and not allow it to harden.

Particle Man
10-18-2010, 07:49 PM
Can tar take the heat? I would think tar in the case of a exhaust pipe would still be pretty warm coming off a wood burning stove. It seems that the heat would keep the tar pretty gooey and not allow it to harden.

if the pipe is properly insulated it should not heat up to the point that it melts the tar. Chimney pipes need to be insulated.

Hydrant
10-18-2010, 07:52 PM
If its a B-vent style pipe, where its an internal pipe then an air gap, then the outer pipe to which he seals it then tar would be fine. But if its just a heavy galvanized pipe then he would still have heat to deal with.

Particle Man
10-18-2010, 07:54 PM
If its a B-vent style pipe, where its an internal pipe then an air gap, then the outer pipe to which he seals it then tar would be fine. But if its just a heavy galvanized pipe then he would still have heat to deal with.

I didn't think those were allowed any longer without some kind of insulator like a ceramic barrier between the pipe and the wood. :eek:

Hydrant
10-18-2010, 07:57 PM
We use Red RTV sealant on any joint piping we deal with when we are sealing joints in power vent piping, or any type of exhaust where heat is an issue. As far as how it is as a water sealant I'm not sure.


This stuff looks to be heat resistant as well as water.

http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/adhesives_sealants/sealants/auto_Permatex_Clear_RTV_Silicone_Adhesive_Sealant. htm

I didn't think those were allowed any longer without some kind of insulator like a ceramic barrier between the pipe and the wood. :eek:


He's going through a corrugated metal roof.

Particle Man
10-18-2010, 07:58 PM
He's going through a corrugated metal roof.

true. I don't think those are allowed around here with codes requirements. Interesting.

Hydrant
10-18-2010, 08:01 PM
Those Dek-tite flashings are nice, but if its a corrugated roof, like the galvanized style I am thinking of then it might be tough to get it to roll down in each groove.

But if its a more of a flat panel, then it would be a little easier.

derf
10-18-2010, 08:18 PM
He's going through a corrugated metal roof.


Home depot sells kits for metal roofs, some kind of steel webbing, with a tar-like bonding material and a silver paint/sealant. I used it on my house last year when I had a water leak.

caveman
10-18-2010, 08:56 PM
I seem to remember that the tents that we had in the Army had a port to allow the heater stack to pop through the top. This port had a heavy duty Leather ring that went close to the pipe then attached to the canvas from there. I would imagine that if you had a heavy enough piece of leather and then use the tar to seal that to the roof would solve your problems quite well.

Captain Morgan
10-18-2010, 09:06 PM
I would check with the manufacturer of your metal roof. They are likely to have flashings designed for the specific style. Maybe you could just get a piece of metal roof that matches yours, cut out a hole just slightly larger than the pipe, insert a rubber boot and tar the homemade flashing down to your roof. If you can't get an identical piece of roof, would it be possible to create a mold and fashion up a fiberglass flashing with a rubber boot? You could then tar the flashing to the roof and to the pipe. These are just ideas, as I've never worked with metal roofing and have no idea what would work.

derf
10-18-2010, 09:51 PM
I seem to remember that the tents that we had in the Army had a port to allow the heater stack to pop through the top. This port had a heavy duty Leather ring that went close to the pipe then attached to the canvas from there. I would imagine that if you had a heavy enough piece of leather and then use the tar to seal that to the roof would solve your problems quite well.

The ones that leak and rely on the heat off the pipe to evaporate any water that runs down it? Sorry thats my experience with them

Rangerscott
10-18-2010, 09:59 PM
Is the stack a 1 or 2 or 3 lined pipe?

101lifts2
10-18-2010, 10:04 PM
Triple...instead of a towel, just buy a couple of Shamwows. They will hold 22 times it's weight.

You can thank me later.

Rangerscott
10-18-2010, 10:08 PM
If it's triple then you shouldnt have to worry about the head.

There are different types of roof "tar" you can get. Get the fiber one.

Particle Man
10-19-2010, 06:41 AM
If it's triple then you shouldnt have to worry about the head.

Signature material right there...

OTB
10-19-2010, 07:25 AM
http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/wood_burning_stoves/Dektite-high-temperature-flashing.html

http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/stove/img/dektite-high-temperature-flashing-b.jpg

Gas Man
10-19-2010, 07:30 AM
OTB in the bottom of the 8th inning smacks it out of the park!

Rangerscott
10-19-2010, 08:53 AM
I was goin to post that boot. Even insulated i wouldnt use one.

Hydrant
10-19-2010, 08:59 AM
Those boots are what roofers use all the time to seal up on metal roofs.

At least the roofers we use when we have a roof penetration for a gas line, vent, or refrigeration line. Just use some 100% silicone caulk on the bottom lip of the boot, and then around the top where it seals the pipe. Some of those boots will even come with a hose clamp big enough to go around the pipe.

If its the corrougated roof, like the galvanized metal im thinking off, that has like rolling waves in it, then getting anything to do a good job will be tough with the waves. If its more of a flat panel then those boots are where its at.

Rangerscott
10-19-2010, 10:04 AM
Theyre for vent pipe, not exhuast pipe.

Hydrant
10-19-2010, 10:14 AM
http://www.fluesystems.com/flashings/info/dektite_square.htm

Square Base Dektite Soaker Flashings
Dektite is a one piece flexible pipe flashing designed to accommodate flashing of various pipe and flue materials onto a range of profiled sheets. The Dektite system provides a flexible solution for flashing problems. Square base Dektites can be used on pipes, vents and flues where the roof pitch is under 11°, in snow zones, on high pitched roofs over 45° and on deep profile roofs.


Silicone covers temperatures from -60°C to 200°C
(-76°F to 382°F)

Particle Man
10-19-2010, 11:49 AM
I have a simpler solution: next time it rains, climb up there with an umbrella.

Hydrant
10-19-2010, 02:56 PM
Just jam an umbrella inside the pipe and that should be fine.