Oil changing question

[dReWpY]

so i didnt change the oil in the buell when i put it away for the winter...

so my question is what the best way to go about changing it this spring, should i start it and let it warm up or should i just pull the plug and let it all drain out hoping that it all has settled to the bottom?

[Tmall]

Warm it up and then drain it. You'll get any condensation/sludge that will mix/burn off and then put new oil in. If you do it the other way, most of that crap will get mixed in with your new oil.

The only way that would be better is to drain it. Put new oil in. Run it and change it again.

[dReWpY]

hmmm first warm day...
its not that the oil is old either, hell it prolly has 1500 miles on it and thats all

[tommymac]

hmmm first warm day...
its not that the oil is old either, hell it prolly has 1500 miles on it and thats all

what oil you running in the buell? I need to choose/figre that out. had the shop change it for its 600 mile service and thats been it.

[OneSickPsycho]

Warm it up and then drain it. You'll get any condensation/sludge that will mix/burn off and then put new oil in. If you do it the other way, most of that crap will get mixed in with your new oil.

The only way that would be better is to drain it. Put new oil in. Run it and change it again.

That's the way I've done it in the past... Drain/change, put new oil in, run, drain/change. That's ONLY if I had a bunch of miles on it before I stored it though... I always tried to time my oil changes to at least 75% ready before storing.

hmmm first warm day...
its not that the oil is old either, hell it prolly has 1500 miles on it and thats all

I'd just run it then... Run it, hell put a couple of easy miles on it, then drain it hot and put in new.

what oil you running in the buell? I need to choose/figre that out. had the shop change it for its 600 mile service and thats been it.

Didn't even know you had a Buell... or maybe I did... I can't remember.

[dReWpY]

hmmm i need to check its the same HD brand though

[tommymac]

hmmm i need to check its the same HD brand though

some screaming eagle stuff or something like that. I have been fine using the rotella in the aprilia but want to make sure I stick with something speciffic for the buell, I was going to proily use the motul I use on the track bikes.

[Amber Lamps]

I didn't change mine before "Winter" either....because it only last a couple weeks!!!! :lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

Seriously guys, I'm not out to start the "storage routine" argument again but if your bike has been parked less than a month or two, I really, really doubt that it matters. Seriously, what happens to oil sitting in an engine that doesn't happen sitting on the shelf?:idk: Besides, I always run mine once a week or so just to keep the battery fresh.

[Tmall]

Seriously, what happens to oil sitting in an engine that doesn't happen sitting on the shelf.

Condensation, fuel, carbon, emulsion.

But, I agree a month is nothing.


This is emulsion..
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/attachments/vr-vs-holden-commodore-1993-1997/50932d1219471384-stuff-my-engine-oil-cap-please-help-image080.jpg

[Amber Lamps]

Condensation, fuel, carbon, emulsification.

But, I agree a month is nothing.

So without the engine even running all those things happen to the oil in your bike? How? Where does this moisture come from? The fuel? Any of it? Aren't those things conditional on the engine running and if so, once the engine is stopped the contamination process stops as well? My thought was that you should change your oil BEFORE storing your bike to prevent the moisture, etc from doing potential damage but since he(and I) didn't the "damage" is already done and changing it now won't help anything imho. At any rate, isn't this just another one of those old tech tips that applied to bikes with cast iron blocks, heads, rings, etc and don't really apply to modern bikes made out of chromed cylinders, aluminum blocks, Ti valves, etc?

You ol' ninja editor!!! I know what emulsion is and it can't happen without the engine running, if it could then new old won't fair any better. BTW if you have that much water in your oil, there's something else going on there chief!!!

[Amber Lamps]

bTW I know guys that believe you should change your oil before Winter AND after! The oil companies just laugh their way to the bank!

[Particle Man]

bTW I know guys that believe you should change your oil before Winter AND after! The oil companies just laugh their way to the bank!

I did that back when the SV was new the first season. Got some good crap out of the engine that way. Now that it's broken in there's no reason.

[Rangerscott]

Yall and storing bikes. Silly willys.

Just buy some cheap ass walmart oil, run for a couple minutes, then drain. No reason to waste money expensive oil just to use for minutes.

[Tmall]

So without the engine even running all those things happen to the oil in your bike? How? Where does this moisture come from? The fuel? Any of it? Aren't those things conditional on the engine running and if so, once the engine is stopped the contamination process stops as well? My thought was that you should change your oil BEFORE storing your bike to prevent the moisture, etc from doing potential damage but since he(and I) didn't the "damage" is already done and changing it now won't help anything imho. At any rate, isn't this just another one of those old tech tips that applied to bikes with cast iron blocks, heads, rings, etc and don't really apply to modern bikes made out of chromed cylinders, aluminum blocks, Ti valves, etc?

You ol' ninja editor!!! I know what emulsion is and it can't happen without the engine running, if it could then new old won't fair any better. BTW if you have that much water in your oil, there's something else going on there chief!!!


Ideally, you should change your oil before storage and not start it again until you're ready to ride.

Emulsion occurs because you run your engine without bringing it up to a hot enough temperature to evaporate any moisture that collects due to temperature changes.

A very small amount of fuel would get by from regular use. Carbon blows by your rings. When that mixes with the moisture from condensation it becomes acidic.

This applies to all engines. However, it really probably wouldn't effect your bike very much. That doesn't change the fact that it doesn't happen.

[racedoll]

I change my oil shortly after winter is over. It might not be the very first ride of the season but I won't wait too long. It doesn't matter if it had a few miles or a few thousand miles on it, I'll change it.

[Amber Lamps]

Ideally, you should change your oil before storage and not start it again until you're ready to ride.

Emulsion occurs because you run your engine without bringing it up to a hot enough temperature to evaporate any moisture that collects due to temperature changes.

A very small amount of fuel would get by from regular use. Carbon blows by your rings. When that mixes with the moisture from condensation it becomes acidic.

This applies to all engines. However, it really probably wouldn't effect your bike very much. That doesn't change the fact that it doesn't happen.

while the engine is running this happens right? Nothing emulses, gets by or blows by when the engine isn't running, right?:lol:

[Homeslice]

bTW I know guys that believe you should change your oil before Winter AND after! The oil companies just laugh their way to the bank!

And what's more is, MOST of these people will sell their bike after only 15-20K miles (if even that) :lol:

[Amber Lamps]

And what's more is, MOST of these people will sell their bike after only 15-20K miles (if even that) :lol:



oh yeah, you know a mc engine is wore out by 15,000 miles don't cha?

[tommymac]

oh yeah, you know a mc engine is wore out by 15,000 miles don't cha?

depends on who owned it, maintenance is a foreign word to some. Granted modern bikes are made much better than 10 or 15 yrs ago so they will run better and prolly last longer.

[Cutty72]

I don't change mine before storage either.
Run it up to temp in the spring, drain, change filter, add new. Good to go for whatever interval you feel like running.
Buell takes 20W-50. It has the HD Screaming Eagle in it now, will have Amsoil in it when I change it. It's worked for the first 11k :idk:

[tommymac]

I don't change mine before storage either.
Run it up to temp in the spring, drain, change filter, add new. Good to go for whatever interval you feel like running.
Buell takes 20W-50. It has the HD Screaming Eagle in it now, will have Amsoil in it when I change it. It's worked for the first 11k :idk:

I will be happy if my buell runs for 11k miles :lol:

Seems a lotof people run the bike a few times durring the winter, which I have heard isnt good becasue it may not get up to temp. For guys like tigger I would think its ok since they dont realy have winter ;) but my bikes have prety much been down since november.

[Cutty72]

I will be happy if my buell runs for 11k miles :lol:

Seems a lotof people run the bike a few times durring the winter, which I have heard isnt good becasue it may not get up to temp. For guys like tigger I would think its ok since they dont realy have winter ;) but my bikes have prety much been down since november.

So far so good, but yeah, mine's been parked since late Oct.

[Homeslice]

I will be happy if my buell runs for 11k miles :lol:

Seems a lotof people run the bike a few times durring the winter, which I have heard isnt good becasue it may not get up to temp. For guys like tigger I would think its ok since they dont realy have winter ;) but my bikes have prety much been down since november.

As long as you run it long enough to make the temp gauge rise enough to where the fans come on, it should be fine. Also even if your ride is short, you could let it idle afterwards to build up temp.

[Amber Lamps]

As long as you run it long enough to make the temp gauge rise enough to where the fans come on, it should be fine. Also even if your ride is short, you could let it idle afterwards to build up temp.

This. Running it up to temp is a choice not an accident...

[Particle Man]

I will be happy if my buell runs for 11k miles :lol:

Seems a lotof people run the bike a few times durring the winter, which I have heard isnt good becasue it may not get up to temp. For guys like tigger I would think its ok since they dont realy have winter ;) but my bikes have prety much been down since november.
Unless I'm fixing something, if I'm starting it, I'm riding it. :)

[tommymac]

Unless I'm fixing something, if I'm starting it, I'm riding it. :)

I ma sure your SV is sleeping comfortably at this time though ;)

[tached1000rr]

I just wish I owned an oil company....

[Particle Man]

I ma sure your SV is sleeping comfortably at this time though ;)

Yes :D

[Gas Man]

bring it up to running temp (riding it a few miles/only way to do the trans is to ride)
drain/change it

[Rangerscott]

I just wish I owned an oil company....

Id rather have had a shit load of stock and sold when highest.

[dReWpY]

I had to put a new battery in the bitch this morning... HD battery ran me $106.76!
Highway robbery!
Luckly I had a gift card from when I bought it that covered most of it, I was in a pinch and needed it in like 5 mins lol

[Cutty72]

I had to put a new battery in the bitch this morning... HD battery ran me $106.76!
Highway robbery!
Luckly I had a gift card from when I bought it that covered most of it, I was in a pinch and needed it in like 5 mins lol

Yeah, when mine goes, I am not putting a HD battery back in it.

[tommymac]

Yeah, when mine goes, I am not putting a HD battery back in it.

I would assume a yuassa or another brand battery would fit. Since my priller has similar issues (rotax makes a good motor but shitty electronics :lol: ) would a battery with a higher cca be beneficial. It has helped withthe aprilia.

[Cutty72]

I would assume a yuassa or another brand battery would fit. Since my priller has similar issues (rotax makes a good motor but shitty electronics :lol: ) would a battery with a higher cca be beneficial. It has helped withthe aprilia.

Probably, haven't looked into it much, though I probably should. Some extra power wouldn't hurt as the charging system seems to be a bit lacking on this bike.

[Sixxxxer]

From my understanding..Bikes dont "CHARGE" the batteries unless there moving...So to start the bike and let it idle every week really doesnt do much good for charging the batt.

I could be wrong...But thats just what I was told

[tommymac]

From my understanding..Bikes dont "CHARGE" the batteries unless there moving...So to start the bike and let it idle every week really doesnt do much good for charging the batt.

I could be wrong...But thats just what I was told

doing that hurts more than helps. It will charge withthe rpm's over 4krpms, so its better to get it out and ride it for a while. I keep all my batteries on chargers when theyr enot running anyway, the futura has a shitty electrical system so I am kinda used to that sort of crap.

[Sixxxxer]

Yeah, the Stator is what charges the system...and IIRC the Stator only spins when the bike is moving.

[tommymac]

Yeah, the Stator is what charges the system...and IIRC the Stator only spins when the bike is moving.

I knew little about electronics but the futura kinda forced me to learn :(

[Sixxxxer]

Damn Italian Electronics

[tommymac]

Damn Italian Electronics

Not sure if its italian or austrian, those old aprilia motors are made by rotax, I dont know who does the wiring though. Sadly the buell motor is also a rotax and they too have bad charging systems

[Sixxxxer]

Austrian....