hammer + bent bar end = no fun

[Trip]

So I noticed my bar end was bent from my little incident at the gap. I decided to hammer it back straight, I totally broke the weight and got it stuck inside the clip on. Talk about a bitch to get out. Ordered a new one. Ghey...

[zerioustt]

that sucks man!


go grab a beer...

[Cutty72]

sux to be you. easier to straighten if you take them out first.

[dReWpY]

huh, need to remember this since mine is broke

[Trip]

I ordered me a set of R&G bar ends with replaceable pucks, a new bar end weight, driven grips that are suppose to be nicer than renthal, just to make myself feel a little better for the hammer mistake.

[ceo012384]

I don't see the problem, god is telling you to get woodcraft clipons.

[Trip]

I don't see the problem, god is telling you to get woodcraft clipons.

not in the budget right now with the wedding and house stuff plus getting in more track days. I don't have a problem with stock anyway, much better stuff to buy for the bike than that right now. I want suspension goodies.

[marko138]

Reminds me...I need to order some sliders. Thanks.

[ceo012384]

not in the budget right now with the wedding and house stuff plus getting in more track days. I don't have a problem with stock anyway, much better stuff to buy for the bike than that right now. I want suspension goodies.
I hear you on the money front...

But suspension goodies? I'd get that thing crash-proof first.... clipons, case covers, all your sliders, etc... woodcraft-cfm.com is your friend...

Plus lightweight wheels will make a bigger difference for you now than suspension bits from what I've been told. You can get into the expert ranks before you need suspension.

[Trip]

I hear you on the money front...

But suspension goodies? I'd get that thing crash-proof first.... clipons, case covers, all your sliders, etc... woodcraft-cfm.com is your friend...

Plus lightweight wheels will make a bigger difference for you now than suspension bits from what I've been told. You can get into the expert ranks before you need suspension.

Whoever told you that doesn't have enough money for suspension. The right suspension is a thing of wonder. Plus I have done adjusted the best I could to the stock shit and it is still not right for me.

Nothing is crash proof, plus I can get used stock replacements for cheaper than any woodcraft replacement. Their skid pads hardly ever protect the case cover from getting rashed up from what I have seen of the ones that have gone down. Waste of money to me to buy something that costs double that still is going to get rashed. They may take a little more of a beating, but they still look like shit after sliding across the asphalt and then you have to chunk out more money to get another skid pad and that is like 1/2 the cost of buying a stock used part on fleabay. The skid pad still doesn't replace the scratched up case cover either.

[ceo012384]

You can't put a wheel on a racetrack without case covers.

The woodcrafts don't wear through. The stock ones do.


About the suspension, yeah, I'm sure it's great... but you're not faster than stock suspension... and that shit is mad $$.

[Trip]

You can't put a wheel on a racetrack without case covers.

The woodcrafts don't wear through. The stock ones do.

I'm not racing, why do I care? I am about cost effective riding, it doesn't make sense for me to buy something that costs more to replace instead of using the money to something more important to me.

[Gas Man]

:nopicsbs:

[Dnyce]

Whoever told you that doesn't have enough money for suspension. The right suspension is a thing of wonder. Plus I have done adjusted the best I could to the stock shit and it is still not right for me.





About the suspension, yeah, I'm sure it's great... but you're not faster than stock suspension... and that shit is mad $$.

i notice suspension keeps coming up lately-are u guys talkin about having racetech redo the guts of your forks, and revalve/re spring the rear....or are u talking about going all out with ohlins forks and shocks, doin that? big price difference...

cuz it would seem having the susp setup perfectly for u would make the bike easier to ride, and therefore make u faster, and it seems for some ppl, that perfect setup is outside the realm of the factory supplied equipment.

also seems like it could be one of those upgrades that u cant appreciate until u have it.... kinda like an extended swingarm if you're drag racing :dthumb:

:idk:

[ceo012384]

i notice suspension keeps coming up lately-are u guys talkin about having racetech redo the guts of your forks, and revalve/re spring the rear....or are u talking about going all out with ohlins forks and shocks, doin that? big price difference...

cuz it would seem having the susp setup perfectly for u would make the bike easier to ride, and therefore make u faster, and it seems for some ppl, that perfect setup is outside the realm of the factory supplied equipment.

also seems like it could be one of those upgrades that u cant appreciate until u have it.... kinda like an extended swingarm if you're drag racing :dthumb:

:idk:

In general the rear shock is replaced, not rebuilt. This can run anywhere from 800 to 1500 dollars.

The stock forks are usually pretty good and can get by with a rebuild. You get new springs and valving. Springs and valves aren't that expensive especially if you can do it yourself, it's like 400 bucks I think. Paying someone to rebuild them adds a couple hundred.

You can go with a full cartridge replacement on the forks as a step above.

The top top step is to get new gas charged forks if you're a baller. This ranges from around 2grand to rebuild your that way to up to 10 grand for the top ohlins full replacement shit.

No one on this board needs the top forks... Usually people drop about 2gs and up on suspension work. Ohlins rear shock and revalve/respring the forks. When I eventually do it that's what I'll do.

[Trip]

In general the rear shock is replaced, not rebuilt. This can run anywhere from 800 to 1500 dollars.

The stock forks are usually pretty good and can get by with a rebuild. You get new springs and valving. Springs and valves aren't that expensive especially if you can do it yourself, it's like 400 bucks I think. Paying someone to rebuild them adds a couple hundred.

You can go with a full cartridge replacement on the forks as a step above.

The top top step is to get new gas charged forks if you're a baller. This ranges from around 2grand to rebuild your that way to up to 10 grand for the top ohlins full replacement shit.

No one on this board needs the top forks... Usually people drop about 2gs and up on suspension work. Ohlins rear shock and revalve/respring the forks. When I eventually do it that's what I'll do.

No one needs a lot of shit, but they do it anyway. Does anyone not racing pro really need an exhaust and a pc3? Fuck no, but people do that as the first mod anyway. Suspension is considered a much better use of money anyway. You can get a great penske and respring thicker oil your forks for the same price. Especially for some members of the board where you aren't a 155 lbs person. If you are over like 190, the stock suspension is not good for you on a 600 if you can even get it close to in range, you are lucky.

[ceo012384]

No one needs a lot of shit, but they do it anyway. Does anyone not racing pro really need an exhaust and a pc3? Fuck no, but people do that as the first mod anyway. Suspension is considered a much better use of money anyway. You can get a great penske and respring thicker oil your forks for the same price. Especially for some members of the board where you aren't a 155 lbs person. If you are over like 190, the stock suspension is not good for you on a 600 if you can even get it close to in range, you are lucky.

I am not saying people shouldn't do suspension... I will do it eventually for sure.

I was just saying the 10k ohlins superbike forks are insane.

I want to pick up used stuff eventually and just freshen it up with oil and seals... should save lots of money.

[Gunther1000]

and for most bikes, A pcIII will help driveablilty. Did for mine at the on/off throttle snatch.

[Trip]

and for most bikes, A pcIII will help driveablilty. Did for mine at the on/off throttle snatch.

1000s are a different animal all together from 600s. PCIII doesn't really do much for a 600 unless you get a full and your map totally doesnt match and really bogs your bike down.

[Gunther1000]

1000s are a different animal all together from 600s. PCIII doesn't really do much for a 600 unless you get a full and your map totally doesnt match and really bogs your bike down.


You are probably right, I couldn't see a 600 really having that abrupt grab coming back on the gas that mine had. Well still has but not nearly as bad.

I just would think a guy with any new fuel injected bike would stand to gain over the stock EPA friendly factory settings but I would have no clue as to a 600. I have only rode 3 in my life and not for very long. Never owned one... Bored the shit out of me. Now I would like to try one on the tight shit. It would be a lot easier to ride fast I think. But I Would still like to own a 250 2-stroke for just that.
But as you know the benifit of a 4 strokes maintenance scheduel is a lot more user friendly...

[Switch]

Updating the map on my PC for the Arata exhaust definitely made a difference on the 600.

[Trip]

Updating the map on my PC for the Arata exhaust definitely made a difference on the 600.

isn't your arata a full?

[Switch]

isn't your arata a full?

But of course.

[Trip]

But of course.

well then it would make a big difference over the stock map as i said before

[Switch]

well then it would make a big difference over the stock map as i said before

I have to poop.