Bleedin Brakes R Fun

[NONE_too_SOFT]

http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/7232/accountidnone24gmailcom.jpg
http://img114.imageshack.us/img114/7232/accountidnone24gmailcom.jpg


This is the progress i've made after pumping my brakes for about 45 minutes. I'm not even noticeably making progress, and its pissing me off. I Installed the pads, attatched the lines to the new calipers (washer-banjo-washer), mounted the calipers attatched the lines to the master cylinder (washer-banjo-washer-banjo-washer). If i missed something please elaborate.

I tightened the bleeders, and proceded to fill the res. with fluid. Pump pump pump, pump pump pump, release bleeder. Nothing. Pump pump pump pump pump pump with the bleeder open.... nothing. Eventually i started to get some fuild down there, but im not getting any resistance at all from the lever, and it seems like this is taking FOREVER.



Before i head back out there i just wanted to make sure that this is supposed to be the the most tedious thing i've ever done on my bike and i'm not missing something.

[G-Rex]

Here's what you need to, and you can thank me later.

Crack open each bleeder screw. Run some fluid through, working the brake lever vigorously (hey that's a big word! :D) :lol: Anyway, do that on both side for, say, 2 or 3 re-fills of the master cylinder.

Right now, you have a LOT of air in the system. Doing this will get rid of a lot of it, and when you close the screws and start the actual bleeding process, you will find it to be much more productive.

[azoomm]

Oh damn man... MANUALLY??!? Go to your closest store and get a bleeder on a vacuum line. I have one from Harbor Freight and it's the best $20 ever spent.

Seriously...

[NONE_too_SOFT]

Oh damn man... MANUALLY??!? Go to your closest store and get a bleeder on a vacuum line. I have one from Harbor Freight and it's the best $20 ever spent.

Seriously...

seriously i just went to the store and they're selling something similar for sixty bucks. no thank you.

[azoomm]

seriously i just went to the store and they're selling something similar for sixty bucks. no thank you.

I'd still do it.

But then, I probably don't have the hand pumping action down like you do :wink: :lol:

[Archren]

I'd still do it.

But then, I probably don't have the hand pumping action down like you do :wink: :lol:

:lmao:

[G-Rex]

How did people get along before the Mighty-Vac. :lol:

Do what I said, and you'll be riding that thing in less than an hour. Chop chop.

[tommymac]

How did people get along before the Mighty-Vac. :lol:

Do what I said, and you'll be riding that thing in less than an hour. Chop chop.

mighty vac FTMFW

Tom

[G-Rex]

Oh, don't get me wrong. I own a Mighty-Vac and use it. It makes the job much easier and faster. But, you can get it done *without*. Just gotta know how. :D

[NONE_too_SOFT]

Here's what you need to, and you can thank me later.

Crack open each bleeder screw. Run some fluid through, working the brake lever vigorously (hey that's a big word! :D) :lol: Anyway, do that on both side for, say, 2 or 3 re-fills of the master cylinder.

Right now, you have a LOT of air in the system. Doing this will get rid of a lot of it, and when you close the screws and start the actual bleeding process, you will find it to be much more productive.

Yea i was going for this to begin with. I think the check valve on the line i was using was preventing it from gravity feeding very fast, so i yanked that thing off, and voila i can actually see it moving through the hose now.

slowly.

[NONE_too_SOFT]

How did people get along before the Mighty-Vac. :lol:

Do what I said, and you'll be riding that thing in less than an hour. Chop chop.

Hah, not really. still need plastics to get here, and change the oil.

[Rider]

Buy these... You'll thank me for it.

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

[NONE_too_SOFT]

guys seriously. Im trying to be stuborn here. stop telling me to buy things i already know about. I dont want to spend money right now.

[Amber Lamps]

guys seriously. Im trying to be stuborn here. stop telling me to buy things i already know about. I dont want to spend money right now.



Okay, people are going to say I'm crazy but... Take the caliper back off the bike and elevate it above the master cylinder. Statue of Liberty style! Open the bleeder and pump until fluid comes out in a decent flow. Re-install the caliper and do the same to the other side. Of course, make sure you open and close the bleeder with it elevated and always keep the res. full. Now bleed the brakes until you get decent pressure and no big bubbles. Pump the brake lever until you get max pressure and hold it in and tape/zip tie the lever back. Tap the lines a few times with a wrench or some thing and go have a sandwich, watch tv, go to bed, whatever. When you get back the brakes should be good (give it 4-6 hours).If not pump them up again and tie them back and leave them for a few more hours. Rock hard brakes and stoppies for all!

[Amber Lamps]

For the record I've installed brake lines on every bike I've owned since 1995 using this method.

[NONE_too_SOFT]

thx tig, but it didnt even get to that point. I used the water bottle meathod (bleeding the fluid into water so air cant get back into the system) just fine.

After some tweaks and tinkering i got it all done pretty damn quick. let it gravity feed for a couple resevoirs full, then pumped all the bubbles out until i got to the tiny bubbles, then pumped them all out til i got no bubbles, then a few more pumps just to make sure. Then closed the bleed and did the same on the other side. No bubbles. Im going to go finish it up by trying these steps out.

Fine Bleed:
This step assumes you have a majority of the air out of the system.
1. Open the reservoir and top it off with fluid
2. Attach the hose to the bleeder of one caliper. Run the other end of the hose into the water bottle, keeping the end IN THE WATER.
3. With small short strokes, pump the lever until it is firm.
4. Squeeze the lever firmly.
5. Crack open the bleeder valve momentarily and then close it. This should be done while the lever is pulled in and NOT RELEASED.
6. Release the lever and repeat steps 3-5 until you get 3 or more full strokes with NO evidence of air bubbles.
7. Repeat for other side

Have great pressure now, just wish i could actually ride the bike out to test the new lines and HH pads.

[marko138]

Don't forget to give those new pads a couple hundred miles before you crank on them.

[Switch]

We are all proud of you.

[Amber Lamps]

thx tig, but it didnt even get to that point. I used the water bottle meathod (bleeding the fluid into water so air cant get back into the system) just fine.

After some tweaks and tinkering i got it all done pretty damn quick. let it gravity feed for a couple resevoirs full, then pumped all the bubbles out until i got to the tiny bubbles, then pumped them all out til i got no bubbles, then a few more pumps just to make sure. Then closed the bleed and did the same on the other side. No bubbles. Im going to go finish it up by trying these steps out.



Have great pressure now, just wish i could actually ride the bike out to test the new lines and HH pads.



Good! Well for good measure, pump them up and tie them back overnight. That will allow any air stuck in there to rise to the res.

[NONE_too_SOFT]

We are all proud of you.

thx kyle. Wish i came out of the womb knowing everything, but alas, i am but a mortal.


elaborate a little tig, i understand letting the air rise to the res overnight, but im still scratching my head on that post.

[Trip]

We are all proud of you.

come help me change my fluid if you are a master.

[NONE_too_SOFT]

we're all set. wont know the difference they make til next week, but at least im on to the next project, Replacing the stator cover. and then the oil-change i've been putting off.

anything special to consider when chging the stator cover?

[Trip]

we're all set. wont know the difference they make til next week, but at least im on to the next project, Replacing the stator cover. and then the oil-change i've been putting off.

anything special to consider when chging the stator cover?

don't put the little sensor on upside down when you go to put it back. The bike won't fire up.................

[NONE_too_SOFT]

don't put the little sensor on upside down when you go to put it back. The bike won't fire up.................

i suppose i dont need to ask how you know this.

[Trip]

i suppose i dont need to ask how you know this.

yeah, that was a fun day.

Actually that was the clutch cover, I haven't done the stator cover.

[NONE_too_SOFT]

yeah, that was a fun day.

Actually that was the clutch cover, I haven't done the stator cover.

right right, i like to go down on my left side.

[Trip]

right right, i like to go down on my left side.

yeah, right.

[NONE_too_SOFT]

unlike, i dont know, flying through the air doing acrobatics for 50 yards

[Trip]

unlike, i dont know, flying through the air doing acrobatics for 50 yards

another really fun day

[Amber Lamps]

When the lever is forward the master cylinder is sealed from the res but when it is pulled back the entire system is open so it allows air to rise all the way to the res.

[NONE_too_SOFT]

ah ha! now ur makin sense.

[fasternyou929]

anything special to consider when chging the stator cover?

You might need more than 2 hands to remove it. Those magnets in there are unbelievably strong and you don't want to pry it off, risking damage to the engine's gasket surface.

[Porkchop]

You might need more than 2 hands to remove it. Those magnets in there are unbelievably strong and you don't want to pry it off, risking damage to the engine's gasket surface.

Did you buy a new gasket??? The stock gaskets that are on most bikes are like paper, they dry up and crack easily. My friends did that, and when he went to put the stator cover back on there was an invisible crack that leaked oil from the top side until he got a new gasket.

[fasternyou929]

Did you buy a new gasket??? The stock gaskets that are on most bikes are like paper, they dry up and crack easily. My friends did that, and when he went to put the stator cover back on there was an invisible crack that leaked oil from the top side until he got a new gasket.

I bought a new gasket, but after spending 30 minutes scraping off about 1/8" of the old one, I quit. I put a nice bead of liquid gasket around the stator cover and put it back on. Never leaked a drop.

[NONE_too_SOFT]

Yea i didnt buy a gasket, i'm pretty sure honda uses Honda glue or something to gasket the stator cover. either way thats what i'll use to put the new one on.

Thx for the tip on getting it off... i messed around with it for a while today and couldnt figure out why it wasnt budging.

[Antwanny]

Oh damn man... MANUALLY??!? Go to your closest store and get a bleeder on a vacuum line. I have one from Harbor Freight and it's the best $20 ever spent.

Seriously...

agreed

[Trip]

Yea i didnt buy a gasket, i'm pretty sure honda uses Honda glue or something to gasket the stator cover. either way thats what i'll use to put the new one on.

Thx for the tip on getting it off... i messed around with it for a while today and couldnt figure out why it wasnt budging.

Yeah, it uses honda high temp liquid gasket. It's hard as fuck to get it off. Try to find a good pry point with something plastic or something that won't damage the motor.

[Switch]

come help me change my fluid if you are a master.

How many people do I have to do this for? First fatberg, now u.

[Gas Man]

Yeah, it uses honda high temp liquid gasket. It's hard as fuck to get it off. Try to find a good pry point with something plastic or something that won't damage the motor.
My kaw used a metal gasket that also took some high temp rtv silicone with it as well.