50cc engine troubles, need some help...video inside.

[Kaneman]

I picked up this 84 Z50R in a trade with a guy. Bike seems to be in decent shape, he told me it wasn't running and he hadn't ridden it in 2 years or so. He had like 5 50's in his shop. (For those of you that remember Shugga from SBN and Stuntlife.com, that's who I got it from)

Anyway, so I got it, turned the gas on and cranked it for a bit....low and behold I got it to fire up. Rode it up and down the street. It was running but not very well, didn't have power under full throttle and had poor throttle response.

So, shop manual in hand I took the following steps:

1) Changed the oil only to find that the oil in it was brand new.
2) Bought a new air filter
3) Drained all the old gas and filled it with fresh 87
4) Removed the carb, sprayed and soaked with Carb cleaner

After all that it ran more poorly, as seen in this video. This is the first time it was started today and fired right up after a couple of kicks on choke:
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g8/PsychoMedic/th_DSCF6713.jpg (http://s52.photobucket.com/albums/g8/PsychoMedic/?action=view&current=DSCF6713.flv)

So I pulled the spark plug, which appears to be getting good spark. It looked pretty good, but just in case I replaced it with a new one.
Here's the original:
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g8/PsychoMedic/DSCF6721.jpg

That didn't make any difference. Right now the jet needle is on the factory default second notch from the top. However I have tried 1 through 4 without any varied result:
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g8/PsychoMedic/DSCF6719.jpg

This video was taken after the spark plug change:
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g8/PsychoMedic/th_DSCF6723.jpg (http://s52.photobucket.com/albums/g8/PsychoMedic/?action=view&current=DSCF6723.flv)

Here are some more pics of the carb:
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g8/PsychoMedic/DSCF6716.jpg

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g8/PsychoMedic/DSCF6717.jpg

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g8/PsychoMedic/DSCF6718.jpg

So, any suggestions on what to try next? This is really my first shot at anything besides basic maintenance. I should have all the tools I need to work on this lil' 50 motor and I have the shop manual. Any advice or suggestions are greatly appreciated, I know there's some real experienced folks here. I've got all day so if you need some pics or more video for a good diagnosis let me know.
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Anal Plug (http://www.fucktube.com/categories/97/plug/videos/1)

[Rsv1000R]

Get the jets out, and make sure they're clear.
One's in that tube, but there should be a smaller diameter one for idle mixture.

You should also be able to look the part number of the carb up online and find a diagram for it.

[Kaneman]

Get the jets out, and make sure they're clear.
One's in that tube, but there should be a smaller diameter one for idle mixture.

You should also be able to look the part number of the carb up online and find a diagram for it.

I've got a shop manual that has detailed diagrams. Let me break it down and get a picture of everything and see if maybe I'm missing a piece...

Also, should I maybe run some fishing string through there or something?
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[wildchild]

sounds like you may have displaced a piece of gunk while spraying the carb and it is now lodged somewhere. Just a guess of course but i would clean the carb out entirely. soak it for a while them reassemble.

[Rider]

Run some seafoam through it just be sure the carb is clean. It certainly looks like a carb/fuel issue. You're not blowing smoke and the plug looks good so you aren't running rich. Have you checked valve height to make sure the valves are opening enough?

[Rsv1000R]

I've got a shop manual that has detailed diagrams. Let me break it down and get a picture of everything and see if maybe I'm missing a piece...

Also, should I maybe run some fishing string through there or something?

Once you have it out, you can look through it to see if it's gunked up, if it is soak it, and then spray it out.

While you're not suppose to put anything in it, I've pushed thin wire through them to get some liquid flowing. Just try not to scratch the brass as that will change the flow.

[pauldun170]

carb boot\seal?

[BobTheBiker]

very simple. you have a plugged jet somewhere in the system, remove and inspect every jet you can, also check float height and verify its correct.

a valve inspection/adjustment wouldnt hurt either.

[Kaneman]

Run some seafoam through it just be sure the carb is clean. It certainly looks like a carb/fuel issue. You're not blowing smoke and the plug looks good so you aren't running rich. Have you checked valve height to make sure the valves are opening enough?

This is the first time I've heard of seafoam, I looked it up and people rave about it so I'll try to find some locally.

I have no idea about valve height so if I get the jets clean again and it still doesn't work I'll try that.

The float valve was something else I was wondering if I installed correctly. I fit it into the slot of the float and gently placed it into the corresponding hole on the carb when putting it back into place....like so....
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g8/PsychoMedic/DSCF6728.jpg

It goes into this hole, but when installed remains in the slot in the float...
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g8/PsychoMedic/DSCF6729.jpg

And here are all my parts...
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g8/PsychoMedic/DSCF6727.jpg
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[Kaneman]

Well I can blow through all the jets pretty freely, don't know if that means anything or not.

I'm going to try and go find some of that seafoam, I'll be back.
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Volcano Vaporizer (http://twitter.com/vaporizer)

[Trip]

I'm going to try and go find some of that seafoam, I'll be back.

walmart

[Papa_Complex]

Did someone take the time to add an inline fuel filter? Could be clogged. It's a '84 with a steel tank, after all.

Have you tried running it with the filler cap open?

[Amber Lamps]

I was thinking that too... Also see if the plug was "wet" when he took it out. Maybe his spark is weak. :idk: Maybe getting too much fuel...

[Kaneman]

Run some seafoam through it just be sure the carb is clean. It certainly looks like a carb/fuel issue. You're not blowing smoke and the plug looks good so you aren't running rich. Have you checked valve height to make sure the valves are opening enough?

Did someone take the time to add an inline fuel filter? Could be clogged. It's a '84 with a steel tank, after all.

Have you tried running it with the filler cap open?

I do not believe there is an inline fuel filter, I will double check

Tigger, the plug is not wet so I don't think that's it....

I got the seafoam and am soaking now....wish I had an air compressor to blow them out with!
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[Amber Lamps]

I do not believe there is an inline fuel filter, I will double check

Tigger, the plug is not wet so I don't think that's it....

I got the seafoam and am soaking now....wish I had an air compressor to blow them out with!

Brake cleaner with a straw?

[askmrjesus]

Brake cleaner with a straw?

Negative Ghost Rider.

Brake cleaner, as the name implies, is for cleaning brakes. This is why it has the words BRAKE CLEANER stamped on the can, in big fucking letters.

Do not spray that shit in your carbs. It eats seals, o-rings and plastic bits, like M&M's in a microwave.

I would use CARB CLEANER, instead.

I would also buy the 15 buck rebuilt kit, since that thing is ancient.

JC

[Kaneman]

Alright, I did get some carb cleaner in a can with a straw and sprayed each yet out. The carb cleaner was coming out just fine so i don't believe any of the jets are clogged.

If I hold the throttle open the motor will keep running but if I let off it dies. Running like major poopage.

J/C, the internals, o-rings and float are all in excellent condition. This is not the original carb...
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LovelyWendie (http://www.lovelywendie99.com/)

[Kaneman]

The guys on Planet Mini think it could be the points and condensor (part of the alternator, I think). I called the local shop and its about $45 and they don't have them in stock.

Damnit.
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NEW MEXICO MARIJUANA DISPENSARIES (http://newmexico.dispensaries.org/)

[Amber Lamps]

Also what PC said about trying it with the gas cap open. Plus, is there any chance that carb seal is letting in air? What about the points? Oops I got a call mid post and now I see this was covered. FTR I meant using whatever to clean the JETS not the entire carb, I'm not a total idiot!

[Kaneman]

I doubt it, the little plastic piece that goes between the carb and the intake is in excellent condition as are the two rubber gaskets.

Try it with the gas cap open?
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Wendie 99 (http://www.lovelywendie99.com/)

[Amber Lamps]

Negative Ghost Rider.

Brake cleaner, as the name implies, is for cleaning brakes. This is why it has the words BRAKE CLEANER stamped on the can, in big fucking letters.

Do not spray that shit in your carbs. It eats seals, o-rings and plastic bits, like M&M's in a microwave.

I would use CARB CLEANER, instead.

I would also buy the 15 buck rebuilt kit, since that thing is ancient.

JC

I will defer to your greater knowledge but I do have a question that has always bothered me...um... don't brakes have o-rings and seals as well? The only reason I mentioned brake cleaner was to blow out the jets. I didn't want to use it to clean the carbs. I thought about freon spray but they don't sell it anymore for some reason:lol: or air in a can...:lol: I'm gonna crawl away now and lick my wounds! I really, really need to keep my mouth shut.:lol:

[BobTheBiker]

Have you considered that possibly, the carb you have is te wrong one?

[askmrjesus]

I will defer to your greater knowledge but I do have a question that has always bothered me...um... don't brakes have o-rings and seals as well? The only reason I mentioned brake cleaner was to blow out the jets. I didn't want to use it to clean the carbs. I thought about freon spray but they don't sell it anymore for some reason:lol: or air in a can...:lol: I'm gonna crawl away now and lick my wounds! I really, really need to keep my mouth shut.:lol:

That's a good question. Most people mistake brake cleaner for something that is meant for cleaning the entire brake system, when in reality, it's really just for pads and rotors.

Kaneman, if the spray cleaner isn't getting the job done, you might want to try a dunk tank (carb cleaner in a one gallon gan, with a basket for setting the carb in) and soaking it overnight.

Paul also had good advice about checking the boot for holes or rips. An air leak would definitely cause the symptoms you're describing.

JC

[Kaneman]

Have you considered that possibly, the carb you have is te wrong one?

It appears to be exactly the same as the one in my shop manual made for the Z50R. There are full diagrams of all 49-99cc carbs in the book.


Kaneman, if the spray cleaner isn't getting the job done, you might want to try a dunk tank (carb cleaner in a one gallon gan, with a basket for setting the carb in) and soaking it overnight.

Paul also had good advice about checking the boot for holes or rips. An air leak would definitely cause the symptoms you're describing.

JC

When you guys say boot are you talking about the one that goes over the cable cover on top of the carb?

I'm pretty sure the carb is clean, like I said, the spray cleaner just came shootin out all the jets with no disturbance and a good spray pattern. Then it got on my skin and that was really fun!


Here is the current running condition, notice that it fires right up, but then doesn't want to run at all. This is full throttle...

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g8/PsychoMedic/th_DSCF6733.jpg (http://s52.photobucket.com/albums/g8/PsychoMedic/?action=view&current=DSCF6733.flv)
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[BobTheBiker]

since you've proven your carb is clean, thats not he issue. how's the ignition TIMING? thinkng about it now, its JUST like Sniper's RD when the points were out of whack. check the timing and gap, its probable that they're not set right.

[Kaneman]

I'm going to order a condensor and points from www.dratv.com for $12, replace them and see what happens. Will keep you guys posted.
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[Trip]

I would go ahead and do a rebuild kit too, put that off too long and you have a broken 50 engine aka see my garage.

[BobTheBiker]

you're kinda missing my point. your points/condencer may be just fine, but just need adjustment to make the motor run well.

I'd spring for an electronic kit to ditch the points honestly.

[Rangerscott]

Kaneman man I am in the same spot as you with my 72cc engine (pretty much the same as your 50cc).


After a good 20 kicks, it'll start and idle fine, but no power. I would have to have the choke almost completely on even when the engine was warm.

I took the engine apart and the piston has a lot of scuffing and the second oil ring has about 5mm of it broken off. Still there but snapped. One of the valves is missing a valve seal. The head is all carbon build up.

I tried a stock carb with stock jetting and an aftermarket carb (they usually have a bigger venturi) with a bigger main jet to compensate for the change in air velocity because of the bigger venturi and still no go.


I'm currently rebuilding the engine. Here's my photobucket pics of the process. I'm delayed now cause I have to order a socket spanner to get the clutch off to get to the oil pump.

http://s284.photobucket.com/albums/ll23/rangerscott/Honda%20CL70/

[Rangerscott]

First off, get a Honda manual on it. Helps soooo much. I broke down and bought one on mine.

Mine has a contact point and can be adjusted (timing). Check to see if its corroded or not, then check to see if its closing/opening at the right time/position.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll23/rangerscott/Honda%20CL70/CL70rebuild9.jpg



There is ebay to get parts and this place. http://dratv.com/ I hear nothing but good things.


They have manuals and how-to's hidden in the sight. I say hidden cause you may have to click on a part and then there might be manual or a blown up pic beside it.

[Amber Lamps]

That's a good question. Most people mistake brake cleaner for something that is meant for cleaning the entire brake system, when in reality, it's really just for pads and rotors.

Kaneman, if the spray cleaner isn't getting the job done, you might want to try a dunk tank (carb cleaner in a one gallon gan, with a basket for setting the carb in) and soaking it overnight.

Paul also had good advice about checking the boot for holes or rips. An air leak would definitely cause the symptoms you're describing.

JC

I had a good question!!!!!:rockwoot:

[Rangerscott]

Blown-up diagrams

http://dratv.com/nez50pabydi.html



I use those cheap walmart brake cleaner and carb cleaner (blue cans). The carb cleaners does a better job taking stuff off, but leaves a little residue behind. I let the carb cleaner dry then hose it again with brake cleaner to get the rest off.

[Kaneman]

Well it just didn't make sense to me that after I started messing with the carb the bike pretty much stopped running. On the first night I had it I was able to get it started and ride up and down the street...so I suspect it was still the carb.

I got a couple of other motors and a spare Z50 parts bike. I stripped the carb off that bike which was different from the one on my bike, took it apart, cleaned it out and put it on. I tinkered for a while and got it running....and actually got it to rev....hmm....

Click it into gear and I'm gone, up and down the road, no backfires...so its gotta be the carb. Now, I looked at the schematic of the carb I took off and it exact matches the Z50R.....so I'm wondering why this other carb works better.

Anyway, I do have another question. In this pic of my original carb you can see the brass tube I'm pointing at which I assumed was a jet. I tried to run a very very thin copper wire in there and it won't go more than 3cm down. Is this passage supposed to be open or do I have a major clog?

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g8/PsychoMedic/DSCF6735.jpg
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Honda cm400 history (http://www.honda-wiki.org/wiki/Honda_CM400)

[Rangerscott]

Thats the vent tube. Youre main jet is screwed into the bigger tube behind it.

[Amber Lamps]

Thats the vent tube. Youre main jet is screwed into the bigger tube behind it.

Ha I thought it was the pilot jet or something! :lol: I think the main question was if it was supposed to flow freely? Apparently he has something stuck in his.

FWIW I agree with you that if it ran for a minute and then quit it's almost certain to be something stuck in the fuel system somewhere. It even makes more sense when you consider that the original owner couldn't get it to start but it fired up for you... probably just long enough to lodge whatever back into wherever.:sorry:

[was92v]

the brass tube I'm pointing at which I assumed was a jet. I tried to run a very very thin copper wire in there and it won't go more than 3cm down. Is this passage supposed to be open or do I have a major clog?

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g8/PsychoMedic/DSCF6735.jpg


Umm, I believe that would be the pilot jet, which is the problem. On an engine/carb that small, the jet orifice is so small that a thin needle might pass through if it were clean. Soak the the carb body in a carb cleaner vat (Barryman gallon can) for a day or three and use compressed air to blow it out. The pilot air screw passage should intersect with the passage that the brass tube is in, within the carb body and will exit through a tiny hole in the floor or side of the carb bore on the engine side of the throttle valve. There will be a pilot air inlet in the bottom half of the air inlet velocity bell that feeds air to the pilot circuit that also needs to be blown out with compressed air. Any or all of these could be clogged, but the pilot fuel jet is most likely the bad guy.

If you spray a little bit of carb cleaner into the Pilot air screw hole and blow air in the that passage it should exit out of the brass thing you are pointing at, the outlet hole engine side and out of the air inlet on the air box side.
If stuff doesn't spray out of all of them you have a clog in the one (or more) that doesn't puke carb cleaner.
Does any of this make sense?
The above is a general shot at this, but I have a 70cc version of that engine laying around somewhere with the carb on it. I may take it apart and see what all is in there.

[Kaneman]

Great advice guys, thanks.

I got it to run for about 30 minutes up and down the street until the cops told me to keep it off the road. At that point I was gettin pretty hot (103 outside) so I put it up. I had noticed that the performance was falling off a bit toward the end.

This morning I can't get her to start for my life! Pulled the plug and this is what it looks like....this is a brand new plug minus 30 minutes of use...what do you think? Also, i've got a buddy coming over with some carb soak so I'm going to put both those carbs in there.

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g8/PsychoMedic/DSCF6741.jpg
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[Rider]

Running rich but what I find suspicious is that only half of the plug is black. It's not blowing any smoke when it runs right? Did you ever check your valve height? Run a compression check also.

[Kaneman]

Running rich but what I find suspicious is that only half of the plug is black. It's not blowing any smoke when it runs right? Did you ever check your valve height? Run a compression check also.

It blew some smoke yesterday when I first started it before I rode it but then it seemed to be clean. I held my hand behind the exhaust for a bit and came up clean.

You're right, only half the plug is black...I didn't notice that.

I didn't check valve height or run the compression check. I'm wondering if I need special tools for that? Going to look it up in the shop manual...
________
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[Rider]

One other thought is to double check that the plug you are running is rated for the correct operating temp. A plug that runs too cold will cause a rich condition. You may need to run a hotter plug.

[Rider]

Here is a link that shows the correct plug with a cross reference to other brands.

http://www.sparkplugs.com/results_cross.asp?pid=CR6HSA&crossManID=15&mfid=&seenCrossWarning=1

[Amber Lamps]

Here is a link that shows the correct plug with a cross reference to other brands.

http://www.sparkplugs.com/results_cross.asp?pid=CR6HSA&crossManID=15&mfid=&seenCrossWarning=1

Hey Ed he got the bike to run with a carb from a different bike so that might explain the richness.:idk: Plus he's been playing with needle settings, etc so there's no telling where he's at right now.:idk:

[Rider]

Hey Ed he got the bike to run with a carb from a different bike so that might explain the richness.:idk: Plus he's been playing with needle settings, etc so there's no telling where he's at right now.:idk:

It was running better but it still wasn't right if I read correctly. He may have multiple issues. :idk:

[Amber Lamps]

It was running better but it still wasn't right if I read correctly. He may have multiple issues. :idk:


True, I was just saying that I wouldn't put too much stock in the fact that it's rich considering all the swaps and monkeying around that he's already done. I know this isn't a guarantee but I'd hope that the place that sold him the plug made sure it was the right one...:idk:

[Kaneman]

Yea, it was running, but not running great, so I could indeed have more than one issue.

I think I'll go ahead and do the points and condensor once I get a flywheel puller so I can at least elminate those things. Man, I've learned more about engines in the last 3 days than all my years combined, lol.
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[Kaneman]

I've got the needle on the stock setting for the ORIGINAL carb...but I'm not sure about the alternate carb so I just dropped the needle one notch to lean it out a bit...I'll see how that works.
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SUZUKI T SERIES (http://www.suzuki-tech.com/wiki/Suzuki_T_series)

[Kaneman]

It would be much easier to check the valves if I had the first clue what I was doing, lol.

"Check the clearance by inserting a flat feeler gauge between the rocker arm pad and camshaft lobe"

Great, WTF is that. Off to google I go
________
Coach purses (http://icoachhandbags.com/)

[SteveP]

Sounds like one of your valves may be mucked up.. Check your compression too.

[Kaneman]

I've been out there kicking that thing all day, got it to run for 5 seconds once but that was the best.

I did take the valve covers off and looked at the top of the valves. They were very clean looking, no carbon buildup...looked brand new actually.

I need to get a feeler gauge and a flywheel puller before I proceed any further.
________
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[was92v]

Work through one thing at a time. If you skip around to different things it makes it hard to keep everything straight.

[Amber Lamps]

Work through one thing at a time. If you skip around to different things it makes it hard to keep everything straight.

Yea I don't say things very well but that's what I was getting at. You need to make sure one thing is "perfect" before moving on to the next problem. Otherwise you can never be sure what the actual problem is.

[SteveP]

Yea I don't say things very well but that's what I was getting at. You need to make sure one thing is "perfect" before moving on to the next problem. Otherwise you can never be sure what the actual problem is.


I totally disagree.

One problem can give symptoms in different systems. For example. I had a guy that was 100% sure his cooling system was f'ed. Changed everypart in the cooling system, gauges still read it was overheating. Turned out to be an electrical problem. Just because it's running rough doesn't mean it's the carb.

[Amber Lamps]

I totally disagree.

One problem can give symptoms in different systems. For example. I had a guy that was 100% sure his cooling system was f'ed. Changed everypart in the cooling system, gauges still read it was overheating. Turned out to be an electrical problem. Just because it's running rough doesn't mean it's the carb.

Ah you're probably right but how will he know it's not the carb until he has it completely cleaned and repaired?:idk:

[SteveP]

Ah you're probably right but how will he know it's not the carb until he has it completely cleaned and repaired?:idk:

Carbs can be kinda touchy if someone doesn't know what they are doing. Just because he thinks it's perfect, doesn't mean it is. Time to get a good manual.

[BobTheBiker]

or send one of em to me to service.. I'm real good like with carbs.

[Kaneman]

Carbs can be kinda touchy if someone doesn't know what they are doing. Just because he thinks it's perfect, doesn't mean it is. Time to get a good manual.

Really? Man it just seems so simple, there are only a few pieces. But I definitely don't know what I'm doing. I should've learned all this a long time ago.

I can tell you that the newer looking carb the float and float valve are two separate pieces, plastic and metal respectively. Its free floating with no spring.

On the older carb its a different set up and the float valve appears to be spring loaded.
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YAMAHA IT250H SPECIFICATIONS (http://www.yamaha-tech.com/wiki/Yamaha_IT250H)

[Kaneman]

or send one of em to me to service.. I'm real good like with carbs.

No thanks man, part of the reason I got this bike was to finally learn this shit so I can keep my son's dirt bikes running and eventually work on my bikes too.

Unlike my Dad and Grandpa who used to hook my '82 XR80 up to the four wheeler and drag me around in gear until it finally fired up.
________
Wendie 99 (http://www.lovelywendie99.com/)

[was92v]

The quickie rule on floats is: With the needle valve in the seat and float installed, turn it upside down and hold the float level. The adjusting tang should just touch the needle without compressing it.
If the tang is pressing on the needle valve, gently bend the tab until it just touches with the float level. If there is a gap when the float is level, bend it the other way until it lightly touches. Just make sure it is not installed upside down before you start bending things... :)
You might also hold the float under in a cup of water for a few minutes and make sure it doesn't try to fill itself with said liquid. If you see bubbles or hear/feel water in the float you will need one that doesn't leak.

Usually if it is level, it will work fine and you can cross that off the list.

But if you must do it right... the bottom (top when it is upside down) should measure 15.5mm above the gasket surface, and the the pilot air screw should be 1.5 turns out from light bottom. The spark plug should be an NGK C7HS gaped at .028, and the idle speed is 1200RPM.

[Particle Man]

You should also learn to read the spark plug coloring to see if the engine is running rich or not...

http://www.rscycles.com/tech_articles/reading_spark_plugs.htm

the plug is waaay too covered in gunk

[Papa_Complex]

You should also learn to read the spark plug coloring to see if the engine is running rich or not...

http://www.rscycles.com/tech_articles/reading_spark_plugs.htm

the plug is waaay too covered in gunk

Which makes me wonder if it's not blow-by and the rings are shot.

[Kaneman]

Once I get the tools I need I'll probably start tearing the motor down to learn more about it and see if it needs a rebuild or anything internal. I'll get some good pics and post them up.
________
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[Particle Man]

Which makes me wonder if it's not blow-by and the rings are shot.

I didn't want to go there...

however, the good news is that it's not all that hard to tear down a 2-stroke motor

[Rider]

I didn't want to go there...

however, the good news is that it's not all that hard to tear down a 2-stroke motor

2 stroke? It's a 4 stroke. Still easy to take apart though.

[Particle Man]

2 stroke? It's a 4 stroke. Still easy to take apart though.

crud - I thought those little guys were a 4 stroke :lol:

my bad

still pretty easy (just not as much).

I'll go away now.

[Kaneman]

It doesn't look too hard to tear down, and I've got a couple of spares to practice on. The biggest problem with working on it right now is the bloody heat. Its 103 out there...I was dickin around earlier outside and started gettin dizzy. Can't hardly drink enough water to take it.

Think I'm gonna bring it into my office and work on it in here in the A/C in the next couple of days.
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SexyBarbie (http://www.girlcamfriend.com/cam/SexyBarbie/)

[Particle Man]

It doesn't look too hard to tear down, and I've got a couple of spares to practice on. The biggest problem with working on it right now is the bloody heat. Its 103 out there...I was dickin around earlier outside and started gettin dizzy. Can't hardly drink enough water to take it.

Think I'm gonna bring it into my office and work on it in here in the A/C in the next couple of days.

trust me on this: don't bring it inside and work on it where there's white carpet...

:whistle:

[Kaneman]

trust me on this: don't bring it inside and work on it where there's white carpet...

:whistle:

haha, lucky me, I don't have a sliver of carpet in my entire house!
________
The Cigar Boss (http://thecigarboss.com/)

[was92v]

Once I get the tools I need I'll probably start tearing the motor down to learn more about it and see if it needs a rebuild or anything internal. I'll get some good pics and post them up.

How will you know if it needs a rebuild?

A compression test is a good place to start. If you haven't done one on a bike, the 50 is a good one to try it on. Buy or borrow a gauge with a screw in fitting and find an adapter for that plug size if there is not one with the gauge. The type that you press and hold will work OK on that engine, just oil the rubber before you stick it in.
With the gauge sealed to the plug hole, pin the throttle WFO and kick it over until the reading stops going up.
It should be around 170psi on that engine. If it is below 160 it means you get to dig deeper. Otherwise you are good and don't need to open the patient up. If it reads low, take the gauge out and pour a teaspoon of oil into the plug hole and slow kick it through a couple of times then put the gauge back in. Take another comp test just like before.
If the reading is higher, it is rings and/or bore. If it doesn't change, check the valve clearances, adjust if needed and test again. if that fixes it, you are good, if it doesn't, the rebuild will cost more than the engine is worth.

[HRCNICK11]

This going to sound real dumb but make sure the slide opens when you twist the throttle. If its in backwards it will only open half way. Or if it has the wrong cable it will not open correctly.