Thanks! I realize I am very new in what seems to be a forum full of experienced riders. I hope to put together some kind of FAQ that might help new riders along.

That is the exact truth. I don't really post much in the riding threads and shit because I am still a fairly new rider, but always read through them to try to gain knowledge (then try to implement it in my riding unlike PG who just reads it and is a pro.)

I guess it all depends on how you drop the bike. Drop it with any force and those things won't work as true frame sliders. But don't worry, I didn't believe the internet experts either. I didn't want to hassle with cutting my plastics and figured the no-cut frame sliders would work just as well. Then I dropped my bike on the track and had to see for myself what those POS no-cut sliders are good for, which is nothing. Had to buy a new fairing and repair the frame. So, it's completely up to you what you do. After all, it's your bike.

:beers: I understand what you're saying and these may not be "as good" as frame sliders that you have to cut your plastic... but they seem to be better than many of the other "no-cuts" according to several post I've read where people went down with these exact no-cuts that I installed and they did their job just fine. I guess we'll see if and when I "test" them...hopefully I won't have to. *fingers crossed*

Woodcraft FTMFW!

I have a set of woodcraft frame sliders, spool sliders, and (had) rearsets on my bike. Those frame sliders are very easily the absolute best frame sliders on the market. I lowsided at more than 100 miles per hour in T1 at Jennings, the bike slid for quite some distance on the slider. It saved my bike. I picked my bike up, put a new footpeg on it (hence the 'had') and went back out next session. Then when I got home I ordered a new puck, for $15, and the slider was good as new.

It's a two-piece design, so you can replace the puck itself and not the base. It's cheaper that way. Plus the way the slider is cross bolted you have much more slider area for protection, and the bolt is easier to remove in case of an accident (straight through bolts on almost all other sliders will bend in an accident making them a bitch to remove).

Dood, don't fuck around, get Woodcraft!

:iagree: I had the vortex on mine when I went down and they did a great job!! Better than expected!!

Its awesome to just replace the delrin part as is usually the case, but depending on the damage you do, you may end up replacing the assembly as well...mine held up awesome, ground completely down on one side and only at the end did the bolt itself end up bending...but at regular street riding conditions, I'd only have had to replace the delrin part...but the rest of my bike was untouched b/c I had the sliders...

One word. Vortex.

Two Words. Wood Craft.

The guy who founded Woodcraft (who's last name is Wood) is a privateer who saw the way other race parts were built and decided to build them the way they should be built. Vortex copied his design. If Woodcraft doesn't make it then I don't need it.

My $.02, take it or leave it.

Yeah my PB account has about 4400 pics in it and about half a gig. If you guys were big dog riders... you would understand the scope of my picture taking. On the computer its 1.64GB just in big dog pics (and they aren't big megapixel pics either). I have a pic of almost every bolt on the bike. Is quite handy when a guy asks about something.

On what type of riding for what type of slider...

What is regular street riding. The pic that I put up was from me just riding back to the highway after hittin the twisties. Then one small deer makes a high side and that was the end result.

My point is that you must protect it at "air force level" even if you are just "bar hopping" street riding.

As I said... that was about a 40mph high side! :panic:

Ordered Wood Craft sliders this morning.:rockwoot: