The Great R6 (re)Build
 

So as many of you know the bike was wrecked at a track day in June and I've decided to keep it and put it back together for double duty: street and track. GMD Computrack measured the bike up and it was surprisingly straight... so all cosmetic pretty much besides a radiator and a couple other little things.

Well, after some arguing with insurance, I was able to keep the bike clean-titled (aka not totaled or salvaged or any of that hassle), and I have been paid the full repair estimate amount as well as paid for a replacement helmet.

This allows me to get enough parts to have two full sets of gear for the bike: a full set of street plastics and lights and such that will stay in mint condition, and a set of track bodywork. Also, I'll be putting on lots of goodies for crash-worthiness, ergonomics, and performance.

The following things have been or are soon to be ordered / acquired / received:

ArmourBodies (woodcraft) track plastics
Woodcraft GP shift rearsets with both pedals, rear brake switch, and some spare parts
Woodcraft Case covers left and right and a couple spare skidplates
Woodcraft frame sliders and spare pucks
Woodcraft spool sliders
Also grabbed some klucky pucks and a tshirt
(basically the bike now has everything woodcraft makes for it)
BMC Race Air Filter
Akrapovic full race exhaust with CF can
PCIII
New stock radiator (might patch current and keep as a spare)
CRG clutch lever (pazzo on there is damaged and will remain as a spare)
Full set of black Dzus fasteners
Another set of tank sliders

Also on the way is a full set of oem raven bodywork in mint condition, along with gas tank and headlights and various other parts (got a great deal) (current gas tank will be freshened up and kept as a spare)

Gloves are at Held getting a mild freshening-up
Suit is getting repaired as well
Paint will be done on the track bodywork in a couple weeks
PCIII will be tuned after all the work is done and parts installed

There's other things I'm getting and need to get that I've forgotten, but that's the gist of it.

Sounds like that is all working out for you! :cheers:

Mmmhmm :D

That was actually something I typed up yesterday and am about to post today's progress :dthumb:









So today I picked up the bike and all the parts that had shown up. All the woodcraft goodies except a couple things but including the bodywork were there. The exhaust and pcIII aren't here yet

I brought it home and gave it a quick rinse and dry to figure out what was turn6 dirt and what was damage. It really isn't bad now that all the plastics are off.

A couple of the plastics are actually still alright so I will probably sell those or keep them as spares.


I didn't have much time (after getting the bike, then a family party, then a nice nap), so what I did today was mostly organizational and cleaning, and also since I'm still waiting for a couple parts.


Here's a few photos:


Cleaned her up:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...t/DSC02845.jpg

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...t/DSC02841.jpg

The ArmourBodies plastics are VERY nice. After seeing a set on another bike, the quality is really up there with Sharkskinz but much cheaper. This is not cheap eracings fiberglass... this is really nice shit. Good primer, kevlar weave, nice and light, very strong.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...t/DSC02844.jpg

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...t/DSC02849.jpg

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...t/DSC02851.jpg

I took off more of the street plastics and started sorting through what's trash, what's worth keeping, what's sellable, etc etc... then I got it all out of the garage and onto shelves in the main basement so I could have room to work. The undertail and one of the side mid fairings and one of the front uppers are pretty mint, those will sell for decent money. The rest I might just sell as one big package to someone who wants trackday street plastics and doesn't want to go the track plastic route.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...t/DSC02847.jpg

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...t/DSC02857.jpg

Next I got out all the stuff that's shown up so far and got it ready for installation:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...t/DSC02855.jpg

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...t/DSC02853.jpg

Then it was late and time to go home for dinner.

Tomorrow I'm going to drain the coolant and the oil, pull the radiator, pull the stock exhaust, pull and drain the gas tank, etc etc... and throw on a couple of the woodcraft goodies. I don't want to put something on and need to take it off though.

After that I'll make a list of everything I need but haven't accounted for or ordered yet, and get that stuff moving. I'm sure there will be a decent-sized order from mrcycles.com for little stock missing parts and stuff that are somewhere in the boonies of the turn6 runoff ;)

This is going to be fun.

It looks best naked... Keep it that way.

It does actually make a pretty good looking streetfighter. I can't wait to see it with the track skins on it though.

agreed.


good luck ceo.
do yur thing.
i'm sure you'll keep us posted.

at least you have a kick ass garage to build it in.... good luck.

It will look damn good once you get it all back together with all those new parts. :dthumb:

hOW MUCH WERE THE WC plastics?

the big dent in the tank is why i don't wanna chance my baby on the track. :(

You don't ride an R6... At least it shouldn't burst into a huge ball of flames! :lol:


And besides, that's what insurance is for. :)

Don't let that stop you. Try and locate a used one before you ride track then. You can get damaged ones for cheap on Ebay.

Nope. Many carriers won't cover track damage. *cough* progressive *cough* Of course, you could take it out to the street and drop it again...

i like the way you think

good luck CEO maybe ill stop by and hang out a bit and watch u put her together...im not busy these days

One company is not many. Likes its been said many times before, many companies look at it as a learning experience (especially if there is a classroom part), as long as its not an organized race.

That is the correct idea. Buy some cheap mis matched lightly rashed plastics off ebay... rattle can paint them... track them. Then when on the street you have nice new ones.

Yeah and who knows where you truly "dropped" the bike. Most smart people never file a police report anyway!

It doesn't. It really doesn't.
They list for 649 for upper, lower, fender, tail, and undertail. I got them for a bit less ;)
Then don't crash!
Right.... If the track day organization doesn't allow racing, aggressive passing, or timing, it's no different than an MSF ERC, and they'll cover you. If they try to fight you, you've got a great basis for argument.
You're welcome to bro. I'll be out there every weekend wrenching on that bitch. Except for the couple trips I have to do, like tow it out to the dyno tuner, and drive the plastics to the painter... shit like that.
This isn't really effective though because when you crash you'll still bust up all your mounting tabs and your lights and all that shit.

Track plastics are more economical in the long run, and with brands like eracings out there, very affordable.






I did a bunch of wrenching on sunday... I haven't had a chance to type it up yet. I'll do it when I get a chance.

lemme no when, ill pm you my cell number and ill swing on by

:panic::panic::panic:

Yeah but when you break the mounting tabs on some cheap ebay plastics... who gives a fuck when you only paid $50 for the piece.

Have you looked on Ebay for R6 stuff? Nothing's only $50. You're saving money by using track fiberglass, trust me.

Not even slightly rashed plastics?

Supply n demand I suppose...

I was looking for my bike.. And there are many model years for this bike.. Trash, rashed, and cracked fairings were going for 150.. And thats just for the lowers..

Crazy..

You won't get any really fucked up plastics there, only ones that have a bit of rash or so. Nobody's gonna pay Ebay fees to post something that's fucked up and probably won't sell. I've had a lot of luck on bike-specific forums. I've bought/sold tons of stuff from this one R6 forum.

That's the way to go. If you find somebody parting out and they have the one piece you need, you can get a good deal. (like I did with my wheels) Otherwise, see if you can maneuver a dealer- like the one you bought the bike at- into giving you a fair price.

Yeah, I got my Anny wheels for $550 shipped from Canada. They're fucking mint condition.

You won't care about the fairing, but you WILL care about the smashed headlights that cost 250 bucks to get a replacement for. Track plastics are more fiscally sensible, hands down.
Wow that's ridiculous.
Nice dude. I've found a set of the plain black ones that came off a blue r6 that are complete with all the rotors and such for $490... I'm seriously considering them.

WTF are you waiting for? They damaged or something? If they're straight, scoop 'em up. Having a street set and a track set is tits.

ebay worked for me

under $300 for mint condition wheels, pwned

Yeah they're mint. You want to buy them for me then?
Luck bastard.. that's a sick deal.

yeah it was complete luck. I got the rear complete for like $100 shipped and the front without rotors for $150 shipped. Got the rotors brand new for like $30 from someone parting their stock parts on WERA board because they went to wave rotors immediately making their race bike.

Damn! Did you at least use lube? :lol:

Do it.

Nice! :dthumb:


Too true

Sunday I finished taking everything apart and getting all the fluids out. Since I was still waiting on a couple parts and wanted to get back into the city not too late, I stopped there.


I drained the coolant completely and pulled the radiator off:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...d/DSC02862.jpg

I can tell the area where the leak is coming from, but I can't tell exactly where the leak is. I still think if I can get it done cheap that I'll get it welded/plugged/whatever and keep it as a spare. I'm not sure if it's clear in this pic, but it looks like the whole thing is tweaked pretty good... i.e. the head-on profile is not as much a rectangle anymore but slightly a paralellogram:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...d/DSC02866.jpg

Pulled the can off... looks like it got squished against the swingarm pretty good and made some scratches... I'm hoping the new exhaust will cover them and/or they can be cleaned up a bit:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...d/DSC02868.jpg

Pulled the headers off as well, and pulled the exup cables out of the servo motor. Does anyone know if there is an easy way to pull the servo motor without the bike throwing a code? I.e. is there some kind of terminator that you could connect to the wires that go to the servo motor? Here's a pic:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...d/DSC02872.jpg

Radiator and exhaust systems:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...d/DSC02874.jpg

Pulled the gas tank off:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...d/DSC02879.jpg

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...d/DSC02877.jpg

Pulled the gas cap and fuel pump and cleaned the tank:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...d/DSC02888.jpg

Then decided to drain the oil in preparation for doing the case covers and since it needed changing anyways. Also threw a new filter and hose clamp on there.

Jesus christ! I brought half of the turn 6 runoff gravel home with me...:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...d/DSC02884.jpg

MMmmmmmm dirty track day oil:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...d/DSC02887.jpg

Then I pulled the old frame sliders and installed the bases for the Woodcraft sliders. The bases will help me to line up where I'm going to have to make cutouts in the bodywork for the sliders.

Also organized the garage a bit.

Here's how she sits as of now, completely devoid of all fluids, plastics, radiator, exhaust, rearsets, etc etc...:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...d/DSC02892.jpg

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...d/DSC02893.jpg


This coming weekend I think I should be able to get a lot of things done: install the case covers, rearsets, exhaust, pcIII, bmc filter, etc etc... then mount up the bodywork and drill holes and all that good stuff, which I want to do real slow and careful. Then I need to get moving on taking the bike to the dyno to get a custom map and taking the race plastics to a painter.

Also all the plastics and lights/parts and gas tank and other street stuff I bought from a guy will be showing up Friday so I can get the gas tank together and install the tank sliders and such, and figure out what parts I'm missing, selling, keeping, etc.

You should refill the radiator with Engine Ice.

Is that shit good? How much does it cost? Can I find it locally you think?

Engine Ice is everywhere. And yes it's good.

Like would an AutoZone have it? I think I looked there and they didn't have it :idk:

No but every bike dealer will have it on hand. Oh and it's $20 for half a gallon.

Engine Ice is good shit, easy to find, go to any bike dealer with a parts section and ask.

Yeah and It's already premixed.. I used it in my old 240 which tended to get a bit hot, worked pretty well. :dthumb:

Liquid Performance > Engine Ice

Is that track approved?

Looks like you're wasting no time! Looking good! :rockwoot::dthumb:

if the track will allow engine ice, it will allow liquid performance.

check with the track org rules

k man ill call ya tonight and find out when to swing by

Go engine ice!!! It rocks!!! Make sure its cycle logic!!!

http://www.cyclelogic.cc./


Also, try taking your rad to a rad repair shop. They can probably fix it for pennies on the dollar to buying a new one.

:panic::panic::panic: FAIL.
I got the engine ice just haven't put the rad back on yet.

I think I'm just going to JB weld the old radiator and keep it as a spare... even cheaper than rad repair.

Over the weekend I came to the garage to find more parts had shown up and was able to get some work done.

More toys...

Fresh set of tank sliders for the new tank:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...02903Large.jpg

Dzus fasteners and windshield nuts/bolts:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...02901Large.jpg

PCIII USB:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...02904Large.jpg

Full akrapovic SS exhaust system with CF can:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...02915Large.jpg

Decals for race plastics... replicas of the MotoGP 2007 Valencia scheme:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...02905Large.jpg

Fresh radiator:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...02907Large.jpg

There was a HUGE box with all the fairings and everything. I got a killer deal from a real nice guy on this stuff... he didn't want to part it out so there is a bunch of stuff I don't need so I will just sell it off. But the box contained ALL the stock fairings, a fresh gas tank, headlight, taillight, both seats, ppegs, signals, hotbodies undertail, windscreen etc etc... got everything for a grand, and everything is absolutely perfect and mint condition:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...02908Large.jpg

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...02909Large.jpg

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...02910Large.jpg

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...02911Large.jpg


Then I got started working... peeled off the yammy emblems from the gas tank and then spent a long ass time getting all the glue residue off from underneath... all prepped for tank slider installation:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...02925Large.jpg

Installed the fuel pump and gas gap... decided to wait on installing the tank sliders until the tank is on the bike:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...02926Large.jpg

Fixed that pesky tank side cover with the broken tab by plasticwelding with an old soldering iron... came out pretty good:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...02929Large.jpg

Pulled the stock air filter:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...02927Large.jpg

Threw in the BMC race filter:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...02928Large.jpg

Then, I went to install the woodcraft case covers. Pulled off the right side cover:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...02912Large.jpg

Then, installed the woodcraft unit and one bolt ripped the threads out of the engine. FUCK!

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...02914Large.jpg

Long story short, lesson learned is that a torque wrench meant for 10-80 ftlbs is not accurate at all at 10 ftlbs. Ended up using this as an excuse to check out the new harbor freight in Worcester, where I ended up getting two torque wrenches for 40 bucks total... One for a higher torque range than my current, and one for lower. Also picked up a 115-piece drill indexf or 40 bucks, a pneumatic roller stool for 25 bucks, and a bunch of other shit.

Also grabbed a helicoil kit to do the repair.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...02924Large.jpg

Drilled that fucker out:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...02933Large.jpg

Installed the helicoil with some red loctite and let sit overnight:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...02936Large.jpg

Sunday my good buddy Jim came by to hang out and lend a hand, which was nice. Threw the right side cover on... no problems this time:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...9-003Large.jpg

Pulled the stator cover... it was nice having the second set of hands pulling the stator out of the cover. Got that bitch thrown on:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...9-002Large.jpg

Ended up pulling the rear wheel to clean both sprockets and the chain REALLY well... there was so much sand and shit in there that it really needed to be done thoroughly. Annoying, but I feel pretty good about how clean it came out:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...9-001Large.jpg

I disassembled the right rearset to pull off the brake lever and the master cylinder and heelguard. Attached that stuff to the woodcraft rearset. Pulled off nthe stock brak switch and cut the wires, and spliced in the new woodcraft banjo pressure switch (activated by fluid pressure). Bled the rear brake completely and installed the new banjo.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...3/DSC02939.jpg

Meanwhile Jim was installing the left rearset. He then put a gixxer sticker on my bike to be funny, saying it would add horsepower. Notice in this picture that yes, there is a gixxer sticker... but also, there is an incorrectly installed shift linkage and arm. Fuckin' gixxer riders.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...9-006Large.jpg

Then Jim left and I fixed the linkage:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...81812Large.jpg

Then, I started installing the exhaust system. The header tubes were already partially assembled and the collectors as well right out of the box, as you can see in the photo up above of the system... well, I was having a bitch of a time getting the header tubes to fit into the engine and couldn't get things to mount up right. I was worried I was going to damage things such that it wouldn't be returnable and wanted to be sure I didn't have a wrong/messed kit... so I took the bike back to GMD to install it.

Well, it was the right kit, it was just that the pieces that were pre-assembled needed to be taken apart and the springs removed to allow all the pipes to turn/slide around in eachother in order for things to fit. Once that was done, just attached all the springs and everything fit great.

I guess I shouldn't have assumed pulling the thing out of the box that all the pre-assembly was right... Lesson learned. Anyways, the system looks fucking sick and I'm sure it's going to be LAF and add some good power.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...02937Large.jpg

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...02940Large.jpg

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...02941Large.jpg

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...02942Large.jpg

Now just have to:

- Install tank sliders
- Remove O2 sensor
- Install Radiator
- Fill gas tank, fill cooling system with engine ice, put oil in the bike, fill and bleed rear brake
- Install PCIII (with downloaded map just to see if bike runs well)
- Mount and fit the race plastics, drill all the holes for fasteners and frame sliders
- Monday the 7th take the bike to the dyno for custom map and tune, and take the race plastics and a few other things up to the painter (and hope they both finish that stuff in time for track days the 15th and 16th)
- Throw the decals on there
- Install a couple other things (replacement pazzo lever, stompgrip, tank pad, etc) when they show up

Shit's gonna be so sick :D

That thing is going to be fucking incredible by the time its all put back together man.

That fucking exhaust is pure sickness.

No doubt. I cant wait to see this thing in both street and track clothes.

It better be. I'm getting psyched as it's getting closer to being done :D
Dude... I can't wait to fucking start this bitch up. Shit's going to be SO loud. No catalytic converter, full exhaust, no air restrictor, high flow race air filter. It's gonna sound like a damn F1 car.

I'm going out to dinner with my folks, then afterwards I think I'm gonna wrench a bit. I don't think I'll get it going tonight... but maybe tomorrow :drool:
I've still got a couple tricks up my sleeve ;)

I predicted 118 at the wheel last night when I was checking it out.

Looking forward to the new updates. And theres gonna have to be a video clip so we can hear the monster.

Kinda high for a 600, no?

What it put out stock?
Stock 750 is about 120/5...

Either way, lookin good man.

Stock is around 108, which is what mine dynoed at one day. A full Akra, BMC filter and a dyno-tuned PC3 will get him around 118 at the wheel. Give or take 2hp. You'll see.

cool. didn't think it was over 100 stock. I can see 118 then.

My '04 R6 dynoed at 101 stock at 5,500 miles.

Lesson learned...

Not only have a service manual.
have a ft lbs torque wrench
BUT
also have a in lbs torque wrench

I have 1 out of 3 :idk:

Dyno tune and map as well as paint on monday 7/7 :drool:
I think I'll be starting this fucker up today. And then fitting the race plastics with my buddy.
Exactly... Another lesson to add to the many I've learned since I started wrenching/riding bikes a year ago. And I mean MANY.
Which one, the manual? You best get those torque wrenches. If it's a fluid holding fastener or a fastener that holds on something important (caliper, wheel, etc)... then I always torque that shit to spec.

It's especially important with bikes because usually you're going with a steel fastener into an aluminum thread... undertorque, and it'll loosen up; overtorque, well,... see above pics :lol:

The best lessons learned and not forgotten are the ones you do yourself. It sucks but is the way it is.

No no no. The best lessons are the ones your doing with your buddy and something happens to him right in front of you and you laugh at him and say "ah ill never make that mistake."

I'll highlight the #1 pt to my statement.

Nope. The ft/lb torque wrench. Haven't gotten a in/lb one yet, and there is no service manual for my bike yet. :panic:

Got your text. I want pics of said flames shooting out the exhaust (I don't have the slightest doubt they are).

fuck that, post em-i wana see too mofo

I said that too. His response was something similar to "Blah blah blah, i'f a fucking cunt."

gonna be sick dude

I don't doubt flames either,especially if you're using a generic map 'cause Dynojet tends towards the rich side for liability reasons. Congrats bro' I'm glad it'sall working out for you! Good call on the cf can btw carbon fiber FTW!

Yeah the flames are just because it's rich... I threw that map on there temporarily. It's getting a custom map on Thursday.







Made huge progress on the bike a little while ago but have been to busy to post it up until now... It's pretty much done though.



Mounted up the new radiator and filled with engine ice:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...4/DSC02945.jpg

Removed the stock O2 sensor and installed the PCIII... downloaded the DynoJet map for my setup on there temporarily until I get a map:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...4/DSC02947.jpg

Mounted up the new gas tank:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...4/DSC02950.jpg

Filled her up with oil and gas, and also had to fill and bleed the rear brake since I installed the banjo pressure switch, then took her outside to start that bitch up.

Started up right away, and that exhaust is SICK. Sounds great. Not to mention that since the DynoJet maps are set pretty rich, she shoots big flames on decel :D

I'm pretty disappointed with the sound in this video... maybe the microphone on my camera doesn't pick up the lower frequencies as well. This video doesn't do it justice at all, I plan to take another one next time I go out there... The camera doesn't pick up the deepness very well and the frame rate doesn't pick up most of the flameshooting. Anyways, here it is:

http://youtube.com/watch?v=SAHLl_xkkyk

Then Wednesday my good buddy Dennis helped me cut/drill/mount the race bodywork since I'd never done it before. The fit was pretty spot-on, the flexibility of the stuff is great.

Mounted up:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...4/DSC02956.jpg

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...4/DSC02961.jpg

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...4/DSC02962.jpg

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...4/DSC02968.jpg

Then Dennis left and I cut spots for the frame sliders. Cut and mounted, right:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...4/DSC02974.jpg

Left:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...4/DSC02976.jpg

Mounted the new set of tank sliders. Looks like Traxxion went to a glossier finish of plastic which is nice, they definitely blend in more nicely now:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...4/DSC02969.jpg

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...4/DSC02971.jpg

Threw on some sexy TWFix stickers as well:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...4/DSC02959.jpg

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...4/DSC02965.jpg

Then I took all that off and mounted up all the street stuff so I could check that all the wiring still worked, as well as cut the street fairings for the frame sliders, like so:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...4/DSC02980.jpg

Then I stripped her all down again, and got everything I'm painting ready for paint. The full set of track bodywork, the airbox cover, my backup gas tank, the stock fender and the two midfairings:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...4/DSC02982.jpg

Now she's just hanging out waiting for next week's track days, as am I :)

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...4/DSC02983.jpg


Oh and lastly since a ziptie bit the wire of my camera lens I repaired that by splicing it open and using four inline crimp bullet connectors which afterwards I wrapped all up with electrical tape:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...4/DSC02977.jpg



Thursday at 2pm I'm getting a dyno and custom map done for the bike. Monday on my way up to the track I'll be grabbing the bodywork. Looks like everything will be together in time... except the decals, I'll throw those on when I get back from the track.

Can't wait to get her on the track. I'm psyched.

Lemme see a shot of the left side's slider. I want to see how much you had to cut.

I'll tell you one thing Motherfucker,if I EVER need sliders cut in...I'M CALLING YOUR ASS!!!!!! I don't think I've ever seen more perfectly cut sliders in my life!!! Good job! Oh and Dlit,if it's the same as my bike,they give you a sticker template to cut by with the kit.

Funny you should ask... I took a shot of the left side but it was all blurry and shit so I just deleted it. You can see it in the third-to-last photo on the table, and in the top part of the second-to-last photo you can see pretty well how much needs to be cut.

The left requires a significant amount more cutting than the right, but it's not a big deal.

The PITA that you probably haven't thought about yet is that those two side pieces slide into place, they have those little hook tabs that slide into the lower fairing... so after you cut a circular hole, you need to use a dremel to cut off some more on the rear portion of the circle... i.e. run a tangent line off of the circle. This allows you to slide the fairing in and out of place.

You follow what I'm saying here? Not sure if I'm explaining it well.

Also, the raw color of that plastic is light grey so you'll need to do something to it if you don't want it to be noticeable.
Haha thanks dude. I'll help ya :cheers:

No there was no sticker I just use a 2" hole saw that goes into a drill. Make sure you get the kind that has a pilot bit in the center for alignment purposes.


Little alignment trick: Get a laser pointer and stack in on top of things such that it's perfectly aligned with the center of the bolt head that holds the frame slider base into the engine. Then, don't move the laser pointer at all and mount up all your bodywork. Presto! Just put the center pilot bit of your hole saw on that mark and you're in business.

You sir are a genius! Thanks,I have a couple of semi-noobs I'm ALWAYS helping with their bikes and one has a R6 and the other GSXR600,both need sliders cut in and I have a laser level so no problemo! I've been avoiding that job for weeks,to tell you the truth!

Couple updates.

First, unfortunately, it looks like the paint won't be ready for the track days this week :( I had a feeling he wasn't going to have enough time so I told him if he didn't think they'd be ready to wait on even starting, since I need to ride with them for the track days, and then I'll just give them right back afterwards. No big deal. I think when I give him back the track bodywork, he'll probably have the couple street pieces I wanted done all finished, so I'll be able to come back and get her street ready ;)

Anyways, a couple little seams and stitches were messed up from the crash so I had Held repair them. They did a perfect job. Also picked up another seat cowl for the street, and in the back you can see my new set of ratcheting wrenches:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...5/DSC02986.jpg

I took the bike to Rob's dyno to get a custom map for the bike.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...5/DSC02989.jpg

Rob's a nice guy and seems like he really knows his shit. The 2006+ R6 is a bit tricky as I understand it because the ECM won't let you open the throttle butterflies all the way below 9krpm, so you basically tune the bike to run well around the low rpms, but can't get full adjustability until then. Regardless, I don't give a shit about 9krpm and under anyways.

You can see that Rob really was able to smooth out the torque curve from 10krpm to redline. Also, the A/F mixture was way too rich with the downloaded map so the result of the custom map is that it was leaned out to a proper mixture.

Not that I care about the power number because it doesn't mean anything and there's no ram air anyways, but she dynoed at 106hp and 40 tq with the BMC race air filter and akrapovic full system.

I thought this sounded a little low but Rob said that was a good pull for a 600 with these mods. I guess there is a ton of variability between dynos (not to mention ambient conditions) and a lot of people play number games... Rob seems to be a straight shooter and I trust the number... but what I really care about is the smooth power delivery and a/f mapping. I don't have a baseline run from before the crash either, so that REALLY makes the hp number meaningless. Once I get her on the track this week I'll see if the performance has changed.

And BTW.. the akra sounded alright revving in my driveway... but on the dyno, since the engine is under load and not just rev rev revving... shit sounded awesome ;)

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...5/DSC02990.jpg

I'm disappointent to see just 106. There really is a gigantic difference between dynos. Mine dyno'd at 108 stock.

altitude, temp, humidity also make a huge diff.

There's no way your only making 6hp more then me.. I only have an ignition advancer, air filter, jets, and slip on exhaust.. your bike should of been making 20 more hp then mine stock.. I had mine done on a dynojet too.. :idk:

There's a guy out here who owns a dyno shop. I was at the track today and he just did a '07 R6, same exhaust, PC3 and an air filter. He only got 105 out of it. He said no bike is the same, he's seen this one guys and he gets 116 at the wheel on a '06 R6. And he did another guy's bike that had the identical mods done to it as the R6 pushing 116 and he could only get it to 109. I wonder what mine would do since it dynoed at 108 and it was stock back then. He was able to get the torque nice and flat though, just like your bike.

Looks great. Top notch work.

I don't really care, it doesn't mean anything since I don't have a run from before the mods.
Yeah it was pretty hot and humid that day.

Not to mention that since his dyno is in a trailer, by the time he was doing the full throttle pulls at the end after the tune, I guarantee it was well over 100 and humid in the trailer. Dude was sweatin' pretty good.
Yeah every dyno is different... It doesn't really mean anything.
What I would be interested to see is

1. a dyno run of my bike before the mods.
2. a dyno run of your bike with the same ambient conditions on Rob's dyno.

Those might mean something.


Based on what Rob said, this was a good pull for this bike.

He said guys with supersport built motors are putting down 120. He tunes a lot of the fast guys at Loudon. He knows his stuff...
Thanks bro.

The bottom line is every bike is different. I wonder how much engine break in comes into play?

easily a 5-10hp dif/variance

For what?

apparently the way you break your bike in can cause a 10% hp difference...

They or you can adjust for that if you have the info. There is a standard that you can correct your numbers to.

OH and I don't like the rubber bungee on the exhaust!! WTF

I was wondering about the bungee too :wtf:

break in

and mileage makes a dif too.

i said 5-10 hp, not 10%. 10% on 200hp is 20hp. 20hp isnt 5-10hp.

weather matters alot too-notjust actual temp, but corrected altitude and density, barometer pressure, bunch of stuff. you could physically be at 1500ft altitude, but after you calculate everything else, u could technically be at 300ft below sea level, or 3000ft above it. obviously more power can be made at -300 than +3000 on a n/a engine

and although you can tune to get the most hp based on where u are(hot, humid, cold, hi altitude, whatever) and then factor it to make you feel better with a bigger number, your engine only put out whats on the paper. factored hp numbers are bs, cuz u made em up. sounds kinda hypocritical on the surface, based on what i said about the weather, but if u understand what i'm talkin about, it'll make complete sense

none of it matters anyway tho, cuz he didnt have a baseline. he coulda gained 20hp from those mods, no one knows for sure. main thing is the torque curve, its not like he's racing anyway

I think what Tig was talking about is since its a low 100s hp bike, 5-10hp is obviously between 5-10%.

true, but i was referring to break-in in general, not just ceo's r6.

but based on his comment, it seemed he thought i meant break-in could account for 10% in any case, thats why i corrected him. just wanted to be clear

the bungee (ie "tarp strap") is not on the exhaust, it's holding the sniffer tube in the exhaust, so they can get a reading on the A/F

yeah I'm well aware of a/f stick... it just didn't look like that.

look closer, its holding the tube at the exit of the exhaust.

yeah i guess... I just cringe if it scratched that nice exhaust all to shit!!

I was on the other side of the bike when he attached it, then when I saw it I was like holy shit! It didn't make any mark though, no worries.








One little thing is I threw an exhaust slider on before going up to the track.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...02998Large.jpg

My suit came back from repair and looks mint. That whole silver panel had to be replaced, a little patch on the black accordion part, and a little patch in the crotch. Guy did a great job.

Before:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...s/DSC02769.jpg

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...s/DSC02770.jpg

After:

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...03006Large.jpg

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...03007Large.jpg

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...03008Large.jpg

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...03009Large.jpg

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...03010Large.jpg

Bike felt amazing at the track after being put back together.

More power, sounds incredible, and those rearsets.... holy SHIT they make everything better. Got my positioning much better and helped get my cornerspeed up.

I bumped up to advanced and the fit was great. Made a ton of progress and can't wait to get back there in three weeks ;)

I ordered a couple photos but here is one that was up on the website. More to come.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...80718d076l.jpg

Next track days the paint will be all done.

lookin good man

who did you send your suit to?