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GP shift adjustment hint
This is for an 06 R6 but the principle is the same for any bike with a similar shift setup that has tight frame clearances around the rod/tranny connection.
A little hint that matches my preferences. After you switch over to GP shift, with the stock linkage, you will notice that the shift rod needs a LOT of adjustment to get back to the same position it was in. In addition to that, I like to adjust the pedal further to put it up fairly high. This makes it easy to get my foot underneath it, as well as making it easy to click off a clutchless upshift while hanging off the right side of the bike. To get the pedal high, I just adjusted the shifter so that when it is pressed all the way down, i.e. it's farthest point during a shift, the knob JUST clears the frame. Like this: http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...1316Medium.jpg http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...1317Medium.jpg Nicely adjusted: http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...1315Medium.jpg |
or just crash your bike and be forced to buy new rearsets that do it easy. :lol:
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After riding on the track with stock pegs and not being able to hang off as far as I would have liked due to the pegs not having enough grip, I'd like some woodcraft rearsets. |
GP shift is the shit.
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I just removed a little bit of a foam piece to allow it to move easier :idk: |
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How things come around. We used to swap bikes in the early 70's and riders would always ask "what's the shift pattern?" All the old British bikes used "one-up and four-down." Although my friend's black Norton Interstate, one of the most beautiful bikes I ever saw, was (as I remember) one-down and four- up.
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I guess you can now consider my bike "one up five down" :idk: |
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