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Old 09-28-2010, 02:37 PM   #41
101lifts2
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the rc needs two things right off of the bat, a vacuum tube that deactivates the flapper valve and the soft rev removal kit, once those two things are done the bike is great, but the addition of a PC helps smooth the hiccups
And regearing -1+2
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Old 09-28-2010, 03:14 PM   #42
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Dropping a tooth in front sucks, because I've found that it increases noise & chain wear. I don't see why people don't go +3 or +4 in the rear, instead of doing the same old -1/+2
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Old 09-28-2010, 03:48 PM   #43
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Dropping a tooth in front sucks, because I've found that it increases noise & chain wear. I don't see why people don't go +3 or +4 in the rear, instead of doing the same old -1/+2
I believe most bikes require a longer chain once the rear sprocket gets too big. They can use the same chain and still be around the middle of their adjustment range using the -1/+2 method.
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Old 09-28-2010, 04:19 PM   #44
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True, but chains are cheap, and it's a perfect opportunity to go 520 too.
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Old 09-29-2010, 12:04 AM   #45
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Dropping a tooth in front sucks, because I've found that it increases noise & chain wear. I don't see why people don't go +3 or +4 in the rear, instead of doing the same old -1/+2
Well then fuck why not just go +30 in the back...
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Old 09-29-2010, 09:00 PM   #46
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And regearing -1+2
I thought it had plenty of pull AND top end as-is...
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Old 09-29-2010, 09:20 PM   #47
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the gearing was way to tall in first gear imho
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