First trip to the dragstrip... ugh.

1hottbikechic · 05-05-2008, 09:49 AM

Well your placement looks good, your all over the tank in the first few, so thats good.... Pics look great!!

OTB · 05-05-2008, 11:03 PM

Try this for power shifts if'n you're having problems;

A. Adjust your clutch at home, when the bike is hot. The plates can swell and drag, so go and do a couple burnouts and then check freeplay; you'll likely find it's GONE after you've het it up a bit. Now adjust for free play and engagment. Improper indexing the 1-2 shift and/or neutral is the best indicator of a dragging clutch.

B. Technique. I don't know your size/strength, but a FIRM boot is required for full-throttle upshifts. If you continue having problems, you may want to consider track-pattern shifting (one up/five down), it'll give you more positve upshifts (I don't know if you can flip on the Zed or not without a lot of rigamaroll). Best technique is to get that foot on the peg asap during launch and preload the lever as if your going to do a clutchless upshift, but instead of backing off the throttle, leave it on WFO and I slide my fingers out towards the end of the clutchlever ball end for better leverage, then pull the clutch in ever so slightly till the shifter slides into the next gear. Yes, bunky, you will be replacing plates more often if you are hitting the strip. And, yes, the engine will be bouncing off the limiter for a second, but that's racing, right?

Clutchless upshifts at the strip don't work very well because you have to either back too far off the throttle to remove enough pressure to get it to shift, or you have to slam shift it (yanking up (or stomping down if you've a race shift pattern) hard enough to force the shift drum to rotate) but this is hell on shift forks and gear dogs, and you WILL eventually blow the trans.

If you are racing stock classes with no air or electric shifters, check your local rules, some classes you are allowed to use the kill switch method. Add a spring-loaded button-type kill switch at a comfortable distance from your thumb. Shift technique with this is the same as clutchless shifting: full throttle, preload the lever, and when you are ready to shift, just touch the kill switch for a second and the bike will shift slick as butter. A little practice with this and you'l be amazed at the speed of your shifts.

Just a couple old racer tricks............

Dnyce · 05-06-2008, 12:41 AM

good tips...especially on the boot thing-gotta be a good firm shift, no matter what technique u use.

in my personal experience, clutchless worked alot better for me. fanning the clutch and shifting wot didnt help me e.t. any better, and clutchless shifting was more consistent. shifted like that for a year and a half, never had a tranny problem. i dont even think they backcut the trannys at the factory in 1980 like they do now.

one tip for clutchless-dont flap your whole elbow, just snap your wrist alil. you dont wana look like you trying to fly lol, plus all that movement upsets the bike alil. once you learn how to do one or both pretty well, just buy a airshifter. easier on the bike, and the fastest most consistent way to shift. cheaper than buying clutch plates all the time, or replacing a tranny if you screw up. but you should always know the fundamentals 1st.

OTB · 05-06-2008, 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dnyce

good tips...especially on the boot thing-gotta be a good firm shift, no matter what technique u use.

in my personal experience, clutchless worked alot better for me. fanning the clutch and shifting wot didnt help me e.t. any better, and clutchless shifting was more consistent. shifted like that for a year and a half, never had a tranny problem. i dont even think they backcut the trannys at the factory in 1980 like they do now.

one tip for clutchless-dont flap your whole elbow, just snap your wrist alil. you dont wana look like you trying to fly lol, plus all that movement upsets the bike alil. once you learn how to do one or both pretty well, just buy a airshifter. easier on the bike, and the fastest most consistent way to shift. cheaper than buying clutch plates all the time, or replacing a tranny if you screw up. but you should always know the fundamentals 1st.

05-05-2008, 09:49 AM	#1
1hottbikechic Ninja Hottie Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Frederick, MD Moto: Sportbikes, MX Posts: 64	Well your placement looks good, your all over the tank in the first few, so thats good.... Pics look great!! __________________

05-05-2008, 11:03 PM	#2
OTB The Man Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: CrabTown USA Moto: 00 Bimota DB4 Posts: 823	Try this for power shifts if'n you're having problems; A. Adjust your clutch at home, when the bike is hot. The plates can swell and drag, so go and do a couple burnouts and then check freeplay; you'll likely find it's GONE after you've het it up a bit. Now adjust for free play and engagment. Improper indexing the 1-2 shift and/or neutral is the best indicator of a dragging clutch. B. Technique. I don't know your size/strength, but a FIRM boot is required for full-throttle upshifts. If you continue having problems, you may want to consider track-pattern shifting (one up/five down), it'll give you more positve upshifts (I don't know if you can flip on the Zed or not without a lot of rigamaroll). Best technique is to get that foot on the peg asap during launch and preload the lever as if your going to do a clutchless upshift, but instead of backing off the throttle, leave it on WFO and I slide my fingers out towards the end of the clutchlever ball end for better leverage, then pull the clutch in ever so slightly till the shifter slides into the next gear. Yes, bunky, you will be replacing plates more often if you are hitting the strip. And, yes, the engine will be bouncing off the limiter for a second, but that's racing, right? Clutchless upshifts at the strip don't work very well because you have to either back too far off the throttle to remove enough pressure to get it to shift, or you have to slam shift it (yanking up (or stomping down if you've a race shift pattern) hard enough to force the shift drum to rotate) but this is hell on shift forks and gear dogs, and you WILL eventually blow the trans. If you are racing stock classes with no air or electric shifters, check your local rules, some classes you are allowed to use the kill switch method. Add a spring-loaded button-type kill switch at a comfortable distance from your thumb. Shift technique with this is the same as clutchless shifting: full throttle, preload the lever, and when you are ready to shift, just touch the kill switch for a second and the bike will shift slick as butter. A little practice with this and you'l be amazed at the speed of your shifts. Just a couple old racer tricks............

05-06-2008, 12:41 AM	#3
Dnyce flyin high Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: cali Moto: 10speed huffy w/cards in the spokes Posts: 2,318	good tips...especially on the boot thing-gotta be a good firm shift, no matter what technique u use. in my personal experience, clutchless worked alot better for me. fanning the clutch and shifting wot didnt help me e.t. any better, and clutchless shifting was more consistent. shifted like that for a year and a half, never had a tranny problem. i dont even think they backcut the trannys at the factory in 1980 like they do now. one tip for clutchless-dont flap your whole elbow, just snap your wrist alil. you dont wana look like you trying to fly lol, plus all that movement upsets the bike alil. once you learn how to do one or both pretty well, just buy a airshifter. easier on the bike, and the fastest most consistent way to shift. cheaper than buying clutch plates all the time, or replacing a tranny if you screw up. but you should always know the fundamentals 1st.