Both Blinkers blink when i turn on a turn signal

[Full Throttle]

So i should get something like this instead?



And yea the Front ones are commercial. The ones you always see in the parts section of the Motorcycle shop.

Something like this

[Kerry_129]

I believe LEDs must have a resistor wired in series to operate in a 12V system, because full system voltage (~14V) will simply fry them otherwise. The commercial ones typically have the LEDs & resistors mounted together on a little circuit board. The 'prewired' singles have a little one soldered directly to the led leads & usually covered w/ shrink-tubing. The way those are nestled into the peg bracket, I'm gonna guess that they're not the 'prewired' variety, but instead have a single one somewhere in the wire running to the bracket.

I do think the best way to fix it would be to add a little resistor in series (in-line on each + wire), not those big resistors in parallel (branching from the + wire to ground). They're like sticking little heaters in your wiring harness - gotta worry about what they're near, and it's just an 'ugly' solution, IMO.

I know all this babbling is making it sound more complicated than it really is - hell, if you were closer to Nashville I'd say just bring it on over & I'd help you square it away.


Edit: Oh - and a BIG plus-one on adding an inline fuse to the power outlet. Attach one lead to the batt, and the outlet to the other, so the circuit is protected closest to the source.

[Full Throttle]

Originally Posted by Papa_Complex

You should get something like the item pictured, in order to add a fuse between the battery and your 12V power outlet, that you stated you had added under the seat with a switch. Make sure that the positive 12V is the side with the fuse. If you've never seen an automotive batter discharge directly to ground then trust me, it isn't something that you want going on directly under your ass, while riding

Originally Posted by Kerry_129

I know all this babbling is making it sound more complicated than it really is - hell, if you were closer to Nashville I'd say just bring it on over & I'd help you square it away.

Edit: Oh - and a BIG plus-one on adding an inline fuse to the power outlet. Attach one lead to the batt, and the outlet to the other, so the circuit is protected closest to the source.

The switch and 12v outlet under the seat already has a fuse in line. That whole set up was rather easy. It goes bat-fuse-switch-outlet-ground. the only reason i have the switch there is so i wouldn't have to link everything into the existing electrical system. so i made my own. The switch is there to keep the battery from dying.

I would of liked it if someone on here lived a bit closer so i could just swing by one after noon and fix it up.

[Amber Lamps]

Originally Posted by Full Throttle

The switch and 12v outlet under the seat already has a fuse in line. That whole set up was rather easy. It goes bat-fuse-switch-outlet-ground. the only reason i have the switch there is so i wouldn't have to link everything into the existing electrical system. so i made my own. The switch is there to keep the battery from dying.

I would of liked it if someone on here lived a bit closer so i could just swing by one after noon and fix it up.

Yea If I could step in on the engineers here....

1. It's a lot easier to wire in a "no load" flasher unit than to screw around with those stupid resistors. Been there, done that.

2. Wire your power outlet to a 12V relay which will only turn it on when the bike is running/the key is on. Use your license plate light positive as your trigger. I do agree on the fuse though.