My R6 has busted Fork Seal need help. - Page 2

derf · 07-05-2010, 08:56 PM

I lift mine with an engine hoist, but in a pinch you can use straps to suspend it from rafters or something of that sort. You can always just support it by the oil pan, just make sure you dont crush itt

Gas Man · 07-05-2010, 10:42 PM

Sorry FT I am late but looks like the boys got you setup.

Forks are a BITCH to dick with. If you're short on $$, knowledge, and tools. I say choose the middle ground. Do like Amber L. says, pull them yourself and have them do the job. Just be sure to do these 3 things.

1. Replace both seals (R&L)

2. Replace all the bushings. They are cheap and it's one of those, "well you're in there" type of things. If you can see the copper, like the pic, they're worn out. Don't replace them and you'll start to wear out the forks themselves.

3. Use a nice quality synthetic fork oil. Like a nice syn Ohlins fork oil.

Do these 3 things and trust me. You will be blown away how much better your bike will handle.

As far as supporting the bike... I agree. use a nice quality RATCHET style strap. Hoise from the rafters of a garage or shed. Support with a jack on the bottom of the motor. May want to use a piece of wood to help spread out the weight.

Regardless if you are doing the rebuild or the shop is.

Do you or the shop a favor. Before you dissassemble it all. Loosen the top cap on the forks first. Then put finger tight. If you don't and it's on there TIGHT, it's a bitch to loosen once the forks are off the bike.

Then you may or may not have to remove the fairings. Depends on the bikes and how easy it is for you to do so. I removed mine so I wouldn't have to worry about scratching anything... they were easy to pull.

Remove the front calipers and string or coat hanger them up.

Loose the pinch bolts on the "bolt" side of the axle which we also call the axle... leaving the "nut" side tight. Loosen the axle and once ready to remove, loose the "nut" side.

Remove the axle and front wheel

Loosen the tripple pinch bolts on top and lower clamps. Slide the forks out

I then borrowed a bike jack so I could take apart the tripples... couldn't do that with my stlye front stand. You could do this as well if you do the hoist up meathod.

I wanted to check the bearings and grease them. However you need to know the torque or "fall away" spec for re-assemble. But I think well worth it. Another "While you're there" thing.

Tripples back together and ready for forks

then once you have the forks back, slide in and reassemble.

EASY.

And for the record as always... if you were in town, we'd do the whole project... I've done a couple, not allot but a couple... and after doing the choppers I think I could do any... they SUCKED!! Needed a step ladder to pound in the seals... cause they were 10" over not just cause I'm short..fuckers!

But I also used a PVC tool to make my own seal pounder. Out of some pvc, a bushing, and an adapter

Which I also have a 31 picture/2 page "how to" on as well. If you so wanted to look at it. I could link you.

Full Throttle · 07-05-2010, 11:31 PM

Yea give me that link. But i think im probably going to pull them and take them to the shop.

Rangerscott · 07-07-2010, 01:26 AM

I did my forks and I thought it was one of the easiest things I've done mechanically. I tried the PVC route, but it was a no go. I had to get the dealership to set my seals for me.

Here's pics of my doing.

Rangerscott · 07-07-2010, 01:35 AM

[/QUOTE]2. Replace all the bushings. They are cheap and it's one of those, "well you're in there" type of things. If you can see the copper, like the pic, they're worn out. Don't replace them and you'll start to wear out the forks themselves.

[/QUOTE]

You didn't need to replace those. You look at the Teflon side of the bushings. You have an inner and outer bushing. If the Teflon (black/grey layer) is on the outside of the bushing, then it wont be on the inside of that bushing. Same goes for the other bushing. Inside has the Teflon and the outer does not. The Teflon area is what touches the forks. It's ok to see copper on the non-Teflon sides.

Gas Man · 07-07-2010, 07:38 PM

I always replace bushings when I do fork seals... you're already there...

Now if all you want/need to do is change fluid... different story.

Full Throttle · 07-07-2010, 11:44 PM

So i got quoted on the dealer doing it and they said 150 for both. And thats if i pulled them myself. So im thinking im going to do it myself. About how long does it take? and im replacing everything. Fluid, Bushings and Seals.

Full Throttle · 07-08-2010, 12:08 AM

What kind of special tools will i need? or do i need anything other than general things.

Full Throttle · 07-08-2010, 12:43 AM

I found a 4-point 1500lb Hydraulic lift for $50 on craigslist i think thats one hell of a deal. I just emailed the guy i hope he still has the thing

Rangerscott · 07-08-2010, 01:18 AM

$150 is good. Here they wanted $350 and thats me bringing them in.

07-05-2010, 10:42 PM	#12
Gas Man Trip's Assistant Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Imported from Detroit Moto: 2009 HD Street Classic Posts: 12,149	Sorry FT I am late but looks like the boys got you setup. Forks are a BITCH to dick with. If you're short on $$, knowledge, and tools. I say choose the middle ground. Do like Amber L. says, pull them yourself and have them do the job. Just be sure to do these 3 things. 1. Replace both seals (R&L) 2. Replace all the bushings. They are cheap and it's one of those, "well you're in there" type of things. If you can see the copper, like the pic, they're worn out. Don't replace them and you'll start to wear out the forks themselves. 3. Use a nice quality synthetic fork oil. Like a nice syn Ohlins fork oil. Do these 3 things and trust me. You will be blown away how much better your bike will handle. As far as supporting the bike... I agree. use a nice quality RATCHET style strap. Hoise from the rafters of a garage or shed. Support with a jack on the bottom of the motor. May want to use a piece of wood to help spread out the weight. Regardless if you are doing the rebuild or the shop is. Do you or the shop a favor. Before you dissassemble it all. Loosen the top cap on the forks first. Then put finger tight. If you don't and it's on there TIGHT, it's a bitch to loosen once the forks are off the bike. Then you may or may not have to remove the fairings. Depends on the bikes and how easy it is for you to do so. I removed mine so I wouldn't have to worry about scratching anything... they were easy to pull. Remove the front calipers and string or coat hanger them up. Loose the pinch bolts on the "bolt" side of the axle which we also call the axle... leaving the "nut" side tight. Loosen the axle and once ready to remove, loose the "nut" side. Remove the axle and front wheel Loosen the tripple pinch bolts on top and lower clamps. Slide the forks out I then borrowed a bike jack so I could take apart the tripples... couldn't do that with my stlye front stand. You could do this as well if you do the hoist up meathod. I wanted to check the bearings and grease them. However you need to know the torque or "fall away" spec for re-assemble. But I think well worth it. Another "While you're there" thing. Tripples back together and ready for forks then once you have the forks back, slide in and reassemble. EASY. And for the record as always... if you were in town, we'd do the whole project... I've done a couple, not allot but a couple... and after doing the choppers I think I could do any... they SUCKED!! Needed a step ladder to pound in the seals... cause they were 10" over not just cause I'm short..fuckers! But I also used a PVC tool to make my own seal pounder. Out of some pvc, a bushing, and an adapter Which I also have a 31 picture/2 page "how to" on as well. If you so wanted to look at it. I could link you. __________________ -Chris "Why pay somebody else to fuck up your bike?" Run Amsoil Product Last edited by Gas Man; 07-05-2010 at 10:46 PM..

07-05-2010, 11:31 PM	#13
Full Throttle ~Italian Stallion~ Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: North West Georgia Moto: 2000 Yamaha YZF-R6 Posts: 446	Yea give me that link. But i think im probably going to pull them and take them to the shop. __________________

07-07-2010, 01:26 AM	#14
Rangerscott Viff6N Mutated Warrior Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Texas Moto: '01 Honda VFR 800 & '09 ER-6N Posts: 8,704	I did my forks and I thought it was one of the easiest things I've done mechanically. I tried the PVC route, but it was a no go. I had to get the dealership to set my seals for me. Here's pics of my doing. Last edited by Rangerscott; 07-07-2010 at 01:29 AM..

07-07-2010, 07:38 PM	#16
Gas Man Trip's Assistant Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Imported from Detroit Moto: 2009 HD Street Classic Posts: 12,149	I always replace bushings when I do fork seals... you're already there... Now if all you want/need to do is change fluid... different story. __________________ -Chris "Why pay somebody else to fuck up your bike?" Run Amsoil Product

07-07-2010, 11:44 PM	#17
Full Throttle ~Italian Stallion~ Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: North West Georgia Moto: 2000 Yamaha YZF-R6 Posts: 446	So i got quoted on the dealer doing it and they said 150 for both. And thats if i pulled them myself. So im thinking im going to do it myself. About how long does it take? and im replacing everything. Fluid, Bushings and Seals. __________________

07-05-2010, 08:56 PM	#11
derf token jewboy Join Date: Nov 2008 Moto: CBR 900, KLR ugly ass duckling, Gas Man Posts: 10,799	I lift mine with an engine hoist, but in a pinch you can use straps to suspend it from rafters or something of that sort. You can always just support it by the oil pan, just make sure you dont crush itt

07-07-2010, 01:35 AM	#15
Rangerscott Viff6N Mutated Warrior Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Texas Moto: '01 Honda VFR 800 & '09 ER-6N Posts: 8,704	[/QUOTE]2. Replace all the bushings. They are cheap and it's one of those, "well you're in there" type of things. If you can see the copper, like the pic, they're worn out. Don't replace them and you'll start to wear out the forks themselves. [/QUOTE] You didn't need to replace those. You look at the Teflon side of the bushings. You have an inner and outer bushing. If the Teflon (black/grey layer) is on the outside of the bushing, then it wont be on the inside of that bushing. Same goes for the other bushing. Inside has the Teflon and the outer does not. The Teflon area is what touches the forks. It's ok to see copper on the non-Teflon sides.

07-08-2010, 12:08 AM	#18
Full Throttle ~Italian Stallion~ Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: North West Georgia Moto: 2000 Yamaha YZF-R6 Posts: 446	What kind of special tools will i need? or do i need anything other than general things. __________________

07-08-2010, 12:43 AM	#19
Full Throttle ~Italian Stallion~ Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: North West Georgia Moto: 2000 Yamaha YZF-R6 Posts: 446	I found a 4-point 1500lb Hydraulic lift for $50 on craigslist i think thats one hell of a deal. I just emailed the guy i hope he still has the thing __________________

07-08-2010, 01:18 AM	#20
Rangerscott Viff6N Mutated Warrior Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Texas Moto: '01 Honda VFR 800 & '09 ER-6N Posts: 8,704	$150 is good. Here they wanted $350 and thats me bringing them in.